海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastl Hydrodynamics_3.3.pptVIP

Case study (III) Homework Chapter 3 Make some calculations to evaluate the possibility that long-period but low- amplitude forerunner(T=20sec) might be used to predict the imminent arrival of short-period (T=10 to 15sec) waves of large heights. For example, how much warning time will the forerunners give if the storm distance is 2000km? 32/34 Homework Chapter 3 A wave of 2m height in deep water approaches shore with straight and parallel contours at a 30o angle and has a wave period of 15s. In water of 8m, what is the direction of the wave and what is its wave height? 33/34 THANK YOU “Coastal Hydrodynamics” —— chapter 3 Coastal Hydrodynamics Chapter 3 WAVE TRANSFORMATIONS Stating ocean wave characteristics Stating transformations of waves entering shallow water 2/34 Wave conservation Chapter 3 §3.2 Wave transformations in shallow water 2. Wave shoaling 3. Wave refraction 4. Wave reflection 5. Wave diffraction 6. Wave breaking 3/34 Chapter 3 The conservation of wave equation can be expressed as 1. Conservation of wave equations This equation states that any temporal variation of the wave number vector must be balanced by spatial changes of the wave angular frequency. 4/34 Chapter 3 2. Wave transformation in shoaling water Assuming that the energy flux is conserved in the process of wave propagation, the wave height at a given water depth can be determined by: 5/34 Chapter 3 3. Wave refraction 6/34 Chapter 3 Wave convergence and/or divergence 7/34 Chapter 3 4. Wave reflection The reflection coefficient is defined as which varies with the angle of the slope, the incident wave steepness and the characteristics of the slope. 8/34 Chapter 3 5. Wave diffraction 9/34 Chapter 3 6. Wave Breaking Critical wave conditions Limiting wave steepness Breaker criterion Breaker angle Breaker types 10/34 Chapter 3 When waves reach the beach and enter water approxima