中英文版滑雪衣做工标准培训讲义.ppt

SnowsportsConstructionStandards Fall2007andForward 滑雪衣做工標準（07年秋開始） ;Table of Contents;Stitching Standards: 車線說明 Top stitching to be 12 SPI 車線請用12 SPI車線 Use Poly Core Thread for garment construction and topstitching unless otherwise indicated.除非特殊說明,衣服縫製請都用POLY 包芯線. Overlock, Flat Lock and Cover stitch to be 12 SPI 拷克，平車及三本車都用 12SPI車線 Pre-Stitch and Stay stitch to be 9-11 SPI, depending on the usage. 根據用途,起針和回針用 9-11 SPI All lining fabric (that can potentially fray) should have its interior raw edges joined with 4 thread safety stitch.所有有可能磨破的裡布,布邊都要用4線拷 克拷過 Cover stitch to be used on stretch mesh fabric seams. 有彈力的網布縫份用三本車 All stretchy fabrics should use 4 thread safety for all join seams. (Cannot use lockstitch as it will cause popping and open seam.)所有有彈性布的拼合縫份都要用4線拷克. Chain-stitch is not used unless otherwise specified on Construction Details page.沒有特殊說明,做工細則裡的則不使用鎖鏈車. Back tack stitching shall be 3 stitches long for security.為安全考慮，回針至少要有3針長. All thread color to be DTM for all color blocking panels unless otherwise specified.如沒有特殊說明，所有剪接用線應為同布色 For non-Gore products use 22mm seam tape for all critical seams. Use 17mm seam tape for all non-critical seams, unless otherwise stated. 除非特殊說明,款式的關鍵部位剪接線,使用22mm寬的防水貼條,非關鍵部位剪接線,使用17mm寬的防水貼條 Vivian remarks-關鍵部位:上衣:前中/外長/領圍 長褲:前後擋/內外長 非關鍵部位:袖攏及其他剪接線 開發時先按客人規定如有不能貼合或是寬度貼上去有問題要先與客人聯繫. Logo 部分的防水貼條,需提供廠商加寬後長x寬的尺寸,訂購ㄧ整塊四周圓角的防水貼條,直接熱壓上Logo Seam Seal Taping should be centered over seam stitching. Cross over seams should be re-pressed. 防水貼條要貼在縫份中間，十字重疊處要用機器重複加溫加壓. Bartack use Tex 27 Perma Spun Thread, 42 SPI’s, 3/8” length. 打結用Tex 27 Perma 的車線，42SPI’,打結長3/8”.;Tacking Standards: 固定標準 For Gore-tex Shell jackets: All linings to be tacked onto shell by Z-liner. Gore-tex款式,所有裡布要用Z-liner固定在表布上 Vivian remarks-Z-liner:一種特殊的布種,可用防水膠袋直接貼上去 For Non-Gore Shell jackets: All linings to be swag tacked onto shell by stripes of self shell fabric. 非Gore-tex要使用本布固