国立成功大学补助新进教师学术研究计画(文本).doc

國立成功大學補助新進教師學術研究計畫 計畫名稱：具延散性之非線性水波通過多孔介質數值模擬及及實驗之驗證之研究 執行單位：水利及海洋工程系 計畫主持人：蕭士俊 Introduction Artificial porous structures such as rubble-mound breakwaters and seawalls are traditionally built near the shoreline with an aim of coastal protection. Such coastal objects partly reflect wave energy and at the same time dissipate wave energy through wave-structure friction (Losada, 2001). In reality, permeable seabed exists along the worlds populated coast and many of them the effects of the permeable seabed cannot be ignored (Chang-Bang fishery port in the east coast of Taiwan). Therefore, the quantitative understanding of flow field of the interaction of water waves with porous structures is the key issue to determine the functionality and stability of coastal structures. When the porous structures are sub-aerial which exists surface-piercing boundaries, the model equations of the porous sub-merged breakwater (Hsiao et al., 2002, 2005) are no longer valid for the applied boundary conditions are different. Many studies have been carried out to investigate how the waves influence the ground water table in the context of the ground-water dynamics (e.g. Bear, 1972; Li et al., 2000; Cartwright et al., 2003; Teo et al., 2003; Jeng et al., 2005). However, their studies are based on Darcys law and the analyses are limited in one-dimensional cases and impermeable flat bottoms which are not suitable for coastal aquifers on uneven topography. Further, Liu and Wen (1997) developed a fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive model for describing tide-induced waves propagating into porous media based on Darcys law. In particular, one-dimensional analytical solutions were derived and numerical results were presented. The two-dimensional numerical results were extended by Lynett et al. (2000) to investigate the solitary wave interacting with porous structure. A more complete mathematical solution using the Dirichlet-to-Neumann operator was provided by Artiles and Kraenkel (2007). In these mo