适应现代技术的纹织工艺探究.pdfVIP

应用技术 织造技术 Weaving Technology 适应现代技术的纹织工艺探究 文 | 杨明霞 邹清云 普丹丹 摘要：随着提花机的更新换代及纹织CAD 系统的普及，纹织工艺发生了较大变化。本文阐述了目前提花机目 板设计及装造过程中可能出现的问题及解决办法。电子提花机的目板穿法须根据纹针的设置来选择，采用空 针的方法能使装造适应品种密度的变化，从而降低装造成本；零花在目板上的安排和传统的方法相反。纹板 编排需保证织出纹样的方向及组织飞数与原始设计一致，如有必要可在进行意匠处理时把纹样上下或左右颠 倒后再制作纹板文件；利用纹织CAD制作纹板文件时，投梭和样卡需根据织物结构、生产设备、意匠工艺等 因素设计。 关键词：大提花；纹织CAD ；装造；投梭；样卡 中图分类号：TS105.1 文献标志码：A An Approach to Jacquard Process Adaptable to Modern Technology Abstract: With the upgrading of jacquard loom and the popularity of jacquard CAD, jacquard process has changed greatly. In this paper, the possible problems appeared in the designing and mounting of jacquard harness board were probed and solutions were given. The harness board of electronic jacquard must be tied according to the settings of figured hooks; the empty needle method can be used to adapt to the density changes of products, so as to reduce the cost of jacquard mounting; and the harness board arrangements of pattern-less area are contrary to traditional methods. The pattern card arrangements must ensure that the direction of woven patterns and step number are consistent with original design, if necessary, the design can be upside down or left-right reversed before making the pattern file during preparing jacquard design; and when making pattern file with jacquard CAD, picking and sample card should be designed by taking fabric structure, production equipment and jacquard technology into consideration. Key words: jacquard; jacquard CAD; jacquard mounting; picking; sample card 随着纺织行业的发展，纹织CAD成为迅速发展成熟的 进行编排，纹板的编排与织物的正反织、左右手织机、纹 新技术，目前在纹织物的生产实践中纹织CAD的普及率已 板首端位置、通丝穿吊方法有关，分为顺编和倒编两种。如 达100%。大提花织机也迎来了快速更新换代的发展时期， 左花筒提花机，若纹板首端放机前，纹板顺编，在织造时 纹织CAD技术及电子提花机的发展改变了纹织物的设计与