风浪和涌浪摘要.pptVIP

有限振幅波(stokes波） 风浪成长状态(phases of wind wave) 定常态：某点的风浪尺度达到理论上的最大值；??? 过渡态：某点风浪未达理论最大，随时间的推移，还可继续增长；??? 最小风时：对应风区内某点，风浪达到定常状态所用的时间。 ??? 最小风区：实际风时一定，对应某一风区内的波浪达到定常态，此一风区长度称为最小风区。 判别风浪的状态：??? 风时最小风时，风浪是过渡态，反之定常态；????????风区最小风区，风浪是定常态，反之是过渡态。充分成长： ??? 波浪在成长过程达到一定尺度后，摄取与消耗能量达到平衡时，波浪不再增大。 Fully Developed Sea Waves grow in size until they reach a maximum for a particular wind speed, fetch and duration of wind. This stage is known as a ‘fully developed sea’. Waves cannot grow any larger because energy supplied by the wind = energy lost by waves breaking and leaving fetch area. How high will the seas get? Fetch – How much area does the sea have available to build? Duration – How long has the wind been blowing? Wind Speed – How fast is the wind blowing? Fully Developed Sea - when the seas can’t get no higher Any additional energy added is lost in breaking wave tops, sea spray, white caps Relationships of waves to fetch Increasing the fetch Conditions for a fully developed sea Long waves from long fetch and steady winds Shoaling swells Swell(涌浪) 涌浪(swell)：离开风作用区域的浪，波面平坦光滑，波峰线长，周期、波长大 Formation of Swell and wave trains Dispersion depends on wavelength Longest wavelength moves fastest Longest wavelength leaves the area of formation first Undulation of sea surface caused by this dispersion is “Swell” The shallower the water, the greater the interaction between the wave and the bottom alters the wave properties, eventually causing the wave to collapse. Mustang Island regular wave trains 1) 波速和波长的变化 当波浪传至浅水和近岸时，其周期最为保守。 水深变浅时，其波速、波长都逐渐变小 Wave refraction 波峰线有逐渐与等深线平行的趋势，波向线与等深线垂直 海底凸出的海岬处，波向线辐聚，海浪较大；凹进的海岸，波向线辐散，海浪较小 Wave refraction and longshore drift 4. Wave breakers(波浪破碎） Wave steepness (stability) is a ratio of wave height divided by wave length (= H/L). When H/L is larger than or equals 1/7 (H/L ? 1/7), the wave becomes unstable. There are three types of breakers:, Spilling breakers溢出型 , Plunging breakers 崩捲型 , and Surging breakers崩塌型 . Surfers at La Jolla CA 5. Wav