海科导打印.ppt

第六章 海洋中的波动现象 Sketch of the relative amounts of energy as a function of wave frequency in ocean waves. The top line (green) gives the classification based on period, the line below (gold) the classification based on the wave-generating force, and the bottom line (blue) the classification based on the restoring force. Wave Types(波浪类型) 成因分：风浪(wind wave)、涌浪(swell)、地震波、海啸(tsunami) 相对水深：深水波(deep-water wave)、浅水波(shallow-water wave) 波形传播：前进波(Progressive wave)、驻波(standing wave) 发生位置：表面波(surface wave)、内波(internal wave)、边缘波(marginal wave) 动力机制：开尔文波(Kelvin wave)、罗斯贝波(Rossby wave) Constructive/Destructive Interference Standing wave(驻波) Standing Wave（驻波） 驻波水质点的轨迹方程 四. Internal wave(内波) 5.1 界面内波(Interface internal wave) 海洋中两层流体的密度相差远小于海气密度间的差异，因此界面内波的传播速度比表面波慢得多 界面内波的波高可超过100m Kelvin wave (开尔文波) and Rossby wave (罗斯贝波) 6. Wind wave（风浪） and swell（涌浪） 有限振幅波(stokes波） 风浪成长状态(phases of wind wave) 定常态：某点的风浪尺度达到理论上的最大值；??? 过渡态：某点风浪未达理论最大，随时间的推移，还可继续增长；??? 最小风时：对应风区内某点，风浪达到定常状态所用的时间。 ??? 最小风区：实际风时一定，对应某一风区内的波浪达到定常态，此一风区长度称为最小风区。 判别风浪的状态：??? 风时最小风时，风浪是过渡态，反之定常态；????????风区最小风区，风浪是定常态，反之是过渡态。充分成长： ??? 波浪在成长过程达到一定尺度后，摄取与消耗能量达到平衡时，波浪不再增大。 Fully Developed Sea Waves grow in size until they reach a maximum for a particular wind speed, fetch and duration of wind. This stage is known as a ‘fully developed sea’. Waves cannot grow any larger because energy supplied by the wind = energy lost by waves breaking and leaving fetch area. How high will the seas get? Fetch – How much area does the sea have available to build? Duration – How long has the wind been blowing? Wind Speed – How fast is the wind blowing? Fully Developed Sea - when the seas can’t get no higher Any additional energy added is lost in breaking wave tops, sea spray, white caps Relationships of waves to fetch Increasing the fetch Conditions for a fully developed sea Swell(涌浪) 涌浪(swell)：离开风作用区域的浪，波面平坦光滑，波峰线长，周期、波长大 Formation of Swell and wave trains Dispersion depends on wavelength Longest wavelength moves fastest Longest w