old beijing and old shanghai.doc

Experience a sexier side of Buddhism The Lama Temple?(25RMB) may be a popular scenic spot now but, before the 20th century, few were allowed in without paying a bribe to the notoriously money-grubbing hooligan priests. They were so infamous for mugging visitors that an early guidebook advised tourists to carry a pistol. Still, the masses thronged to see the extraordinary annual ‘devil dances’: lamas in death’s-head masks would hurl themselves into the crowds, cracking long whips to clear space for dancers , dressed as Tibetan deities, to exorcise evil spirits from the city.  These days, it’s a bit more sedate – no pistols required – but the Tibetan gods are as energetic as ever, albeit in brass form. A look inside the temple’s two treasure halls (found on the east and west perimeters) reveals statues of the gods indulging in implausibly positioned sexual congress with smaller females; even buffalo-headed Yamantaka has managed to attract a play mate. Sadly, five larger figures, supposedly once used to teach emperors the facts of life, have long been prudishly draped in yellow silk shawls, to prevent visitors prostrating themselves in front of the gods of desire in all their nude glory. There are plenty of other authentic sights to take in, such as the gilded Buddha of the Resurrection (Maitreya), carved from a single sandalwood trunk, that rises up through all three stories of the surrounding hall. Get a taste of history It’s damn near impossible to find a fine-dining restaurant that serves up those authentic Old Beijing flavours, but thankfully we managed it:?Beijing Palace, located on Chaoyangmennei Dajie, will satisfy the most demanding Beijinger. This listed historical building is tastefully decorated with Qing Dynasty antiques and serves up food from the delicious (ma doufu, mung bean pulp, 20RMB) to the demanding (congshao?tuozhang, scallion with camel feet, 98RMB).?A local might baulk at the lack of his beloved?baodu, boiled tripe dipped in sauce, but thei