dangerous waves– long period swell- coastal conference（危险的海浪,长期膨胀——沿海会议）（5页）.docVIP

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2017-01-19 发布于湖南
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dangerous waves– long period swell- coastal conference（危险的海浪,长期膨胀——沿海会议）（5页）.doc

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PAGE PAGE 2 DANGEROUS WAVES – LONG PERIOD SWELL Julie Evans Bureau of Meteorology Abstract There has been considerable recent effort in understanding the weather and wave conditions leading to drowning fatalities along the exposed eastern coast of Australia. Analysis of drowning events has shown that long period swell conditions, even of low amplitude, can be extremely dangerous to rock fishers, swimmers and small craft navigating ocean bars. Some examples are described. These swells have generally travelled a long distance from the weather system where they were formed. While they are in deep water, these low amplitude waves are not significant, but as they approach shallow water the wave height increases sharply and in the surf zone they can become extremely dangerous. Along the east coast of Australia the low pressure systems that generate these swells can be far off to the east, even beyond the date line, or to the far south of the continent. Hence they do not appear on the local weather charts and the weather conditions along the coast can be deceptively benign. The Bureau of Meteorology has recently developed thresholds of offshore wave height and period which characterise these events. If the forecast conditions meet the thresholds, dangerous surf alerts are now included in weather forecasts. The development of these thresholds will be discussed. Background The exposed east coast of Australia extends from Fraser Island in the north to Gabo Island in the south; a length of around 2000km. Figure 1 is a location map. The continental shelf is relatively steep and narrow and the wind and wave energy impacting the coastline is relatively high. The waves produce an energetic surf zone and the winds are capable of building large coastal dune systems (Short 1993). There is a network of waverider buoys operated by the State agencies. The coastal zone is used extensively by the Australian community and international visitors for a wide range of professional and r