中国文化之古代女子服饰总汇.ppt

中国文化之古代女子服饰 Womens Coat The clothing of Huaxia People(华夏族) is famous for its Yi and Shang(上衣下裳) and ample gown and loose girdle(宽衣博带).The clothing which is worn on the upper body,called upper outer garment(上衣),while that is worn on the lower part of the body is named (下裳). In fact,下裳 is not trousers,but skirt. Womens Underwear According to the documentary records,the underclothes were used likely in Shang Zhou Period(商周时期). Then,in order to keep warm and uptake sweat,people, young and old, male and female,were keeping the habit of wearing underclothes . 秦汉女子外衣 秦代服制与战国时无大差别，保持“褒衣大裙”风格。秦代服制，服色尚黑。 而汉朝的妇女穿着有衣裙两件式，也有长袍，裙子的样式也多了，最有名的是“留仙裙”。 魏晋南北朝时期 The Disunion of Six Dynasties Wei Jin Nan Bei Dynasties Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties 隋唐女子外衣 隋唐女子内衣 宋朝女子外衣 宋代妇女的装束，除了北宋时曾一度流行的大袖衫襦，肥阔的裙裤外，窄、瘦、长、奇是这一时期妇女服装的主要特征。 当时许多服饰别出心裁，花样百出，呈现百家争鸣的盛况。 宋朝女子内衣 汉族妇女仍保持宋代的服制，上衣有比较瘦俏的背子，衫襦，云肩等，下穿多裙，头上一般梳顶心簪。后受蒙古族妇女服饰的影响，穿一种黑褐色粗布或绢做的左衽、窄袖、腰束大带的长袍的人渐渐多起来。 元朝女子内衣 由后向前系束是其主要特点。穿时由后及前，在胸前用一排扣子系合，或用绳带等系束。 合欢襟Acacia lapel的面料用织锦的居多，图案为四方连续。 明朝女子外衣 明朝女子内衣 “主腰”是明朝对亵衣的称呼，形制和简繁程度不一，有类似抹胸，仅“束之于胸腹间”，也有吊挂、装袖，开襟或钉有纽扣等形制，且常常“非大红裹衣不华”，与明朝逐渐开放和奢华的社会风气不无关系。 清朝女子外衣 清朝女子内衣 清代“肚兜”Bellyband，普通做成菱形。上有带，穿时套在颈间，腰部还有两条带子束在背后，上面呈倒三角形，遮过肚脐，抵达小腹。肚兜只需前片，后背暴露，上有系带套于颈间，腰部还有两根带子，束在背后，系带的材质纷歧。 先秦鞋履 商周时期，履制已经相当丰富，甚至有了专门为天子掌管鞋履的“屦人”，这个时期的鞋，式样、做工和装饰已十分考究。 秦汉鞋履 魏晋鞋履 隋唐鞋履 宋朝鞋履 元朝鞋履 明朝鞋履 清朝鞋履——“花盆底” Ming Dynasty The costume in Ming Dynasty basically followed the style of Tang and Song Dynasties, but there were some differences in sizes of shirt and skirt. Narrow sleeved shirt, long skirt and manteau prevailed in the early years of Ming Dynasty. Broad long sleeved shirt and short skirt prevailed in the middle years of Ming Dynasty. While in the late of Ming Dynasty, the narrow long sleeved shirt was popular with women. The styles of the costume were the imitation of the dress of cocotte, which traits were plain and elegant. ? 明代的女装已与前代不同，但在明初还能看到舍人和元代的影响，左衽、窄袖长袍仍可见到，一般女子时兴窄袖的衫襦、背子、长裙