改革开放30年来中国服装文化心理模式的变迁.pdfVIP

第 32 卷第8 期 纺织学报 Vol. 32 , No.8 Journal of Textile Research 2011 年 8 月 Aug. , 2011 文章编号:0253-9721(2011)08-0147-04 改革开放 30 年来中国服装文化心理模式的变迁 孙涛，吴志明，潘盼，杨旭 (江南大学纺织服装学院，江苏元锡 214122 ) 摘 要 从服装文化心理的角度，研究改革开放后中国服装文化发牛的深刻变迁。提出并论述中国服装文化心理 模式变迁所经历的 3 个阶段，即身份认同、身体认同、个性认同。身份认同，就是把个人的服装与其社会身份紧密 结合，个人着装行为要由群体和社会加以规范;身体认同，是指服装要满足人的身体舒适感和形体美的需求;个性 认同，就是服装要满足自身精神面貌特征的追求或者说将自己从群体中独立出来的追求。通过对 3 个模式和 2 次 变迁的论述，揭示了中同服装文化由群体规范的自觉发展到身体意识的觉醒，进而提升到个体意识的表达，从而迈 向现代化这一过程中的精神脉络。 关键词 改革开放;服装文化心理模式:身份认同;身体认同;个性认同 中图分类号:T5 94 1. 12 文献标志码:A Clothing culture related psychological change process of Chinese people for 30 years since reform and opening up SUN Tao , WU Zhiming , PAN Pan , YANG Xu ( College 0/ Textiles and Clothing , Jiangnan University , Wuxi , Jiangsu 214122 , China) Abstract This paper discusses the three stages of the clothing related psychological change of the Chinese people since reform and opening up , that is , identity identification , body identification , and individuality identification. Identity identificatÍon means that individual wear should be adapted to one s social status and be regulated by the social group. Body identification means that the wear should satisfy the requirements of comfort and beautiful look of the wearer. Individuality identification means that the wear should meet one s pursuit in spiritual look and character or individuality. By elucidating 3 modes and 2 changes , it displays a throbbing line of the clothing related psychological change processes of the