关于攀冰的心理和生理建议(译文)(全文完.docx

关于攀冰的心理和生理建议（译文）（全文完）本帖最后由 dol528phin 于 2015-1-16 11:09 编辑攀了一个冰季，到现在还没有尝试先锋，只进行过简单的模拟训练。一直没有先锋的原因除了确实知道先锋攀冰的危险性，另外一个原因就是心理一直有障碍。正巧看到了George McEwan的这篇关于攀冰心理的文章，就拿来一读，权作自我心理辅导了。希望对和我一样正想完成“处女”先锋的童鞋们有所帮助。也欢迎攀冰大牛们加入到讨论中，分享自己的经验。正文如下。Ice Climbing - Physical and Mental Adviceby?George McEwan?Dec/2011?关于攀冰的心理和生理建议翻译 芽子COME ON.......Keep it together...place that tool, weight it - ok move on it. Now the other - shit! The ice is crap! Come on stay cool - thats good - looks like good ice and a rest above. Place a tool – breathe, keep breathing, keep your weight on your feet - good stuff. Clear the ice - come on - keep breathing, the bloody screw wont bite! COME ON YA BASTARD!! Relax - thats it stay relaxed. COME ON GET IN! Great clip it – breath in two three four out two three four - thats it relax. Nice one! Not far now - weight on your feet... easy ground. Ya beauty! Stay focused - weight the tool. Ok place the other - move up nice one...Hanging off the belay, drained yet feeling very pleased with myself, I see an ice axe briefly appear at the edge of the climb then whack into the brittle ice amid a spray of ice chips followed closely by Mateys grinning face as he pulls over the bulge on the pillar. Nice lead! You looked really relaxed on that pitch he says clipping into the belay...“加油...保持双脚并拢...打镐...，测试承重——好的，向上迈一步。现在再打另一只镐——妈的！这冰也太屎了！加油，保持冷静——很好——这块冰看起来不错，上去休息一下。打镐——呼吸——保持呼吸——双腿受力——好样的。清理碎冰——继续——保持呼吸——呃，冰锥打不进去了！加油，丫的，混蛋！放松——很好保持放松。继续！太好了——挂绳——吸气，2，3，4，呼气2，3，4——很好，放松。这下不错！不远了，双脚受力，好脚点。不错！专注点——冰镐承重。好的，再上另一镐——向上迈步——好的...”保护站上，我筋疲力竭，但为自己刚才的表现感到高兴，我看到一个冰镐干脆地出现在了冰壁边缘，并深深地打入了被冰晶覆盖的脆冰里，紧接着出现了Matey的笑脸，他打镐向上，一边将自己扣入保护一边说“领攀得好！这短绳距你看起来攀得轻松极了！”......Fear and StressLike the swan moving gracefully across the smooth surface of a lake, with its feet going ten to the dozen under the water, so it is the same for the ice climber. Outwardly cool, focused, each tool placement an exercise in precision, assisting economical upward movement. Yet within the climbers head there is full on action