防晒配方开发.pdf

SPF 50+ ，PA++++防晒配方开发技巧 2016 Merck 研讨会 Agenda 1 防晒配方开发基本原则及SPF 指数增效手段 2 SPF 50+/PA++++配方解析 3 In Vivo SPF VS In Vitro SPF 测试 4 配方实例 2 防晒产品开发 Warning –防晒产品是难度“最大”的化妆品配方开发 Formulation 配方 Preservation 防腐体系 Stability 稳定性 Aesthetics 感官评价 Balancing Act –杰出的防晒产品是“平衡艺术” 3 防晒新品开发程序 防晒产品开发时间有限(E.G. Registration time in China is about 10-12 months. While 3 months is enough for SPF products Regulation in Korea) 很多部门合作 Work closely with IP, MRKING, RA, Analytical team, Engineering team. 主要步骤:  Prototyping 配方原型  Registration 注册（特殊类申报，及人体SPF)  Pilots Trial 中试和 大试  Stability 理化稳定性和防腐挑战性试验 4 防晒剂的选择 专利含防晒剂搭配 –光稳定系统 A product with 2% BMDBM and 10% OCR named “BULLFROG” has been published in Australia in the “Prescription Products Guide 1989” and was free prior art as early as February 1989 EP 0514491 from L’Oréal has been revoked in EU due to this prior art in Australia Other L’Oréal patents dealing also with the combination of OCR/BMDBM are US 5576354, US 5587150, JP 2975682B2, AU 652742B2, FR 2658075 All priority dates of the above mentioned patents are after the February 2009 . @ Neutrogena: Heliopan : Avobenzone+BP-3+ Corapan TQ check the situation by internal patent experts 和公司法规部门确认是否涉及专利 5 防晒剂的选择 Bulletproof Sunscreens “防弹级搭配”  Combination of OCRAvobenzoneT-AVO or T-EASY  Combination of OCRAvobenzoneUV-PEARL OMC or UV-PEARL OB-S  Eusolex T , UV-TITAN + UV-PEARL Photostabilizer 光稳定剂 （稳定OMC 和 Avobenzone 防止光降解)  Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate(ST Liquid,0.2%)  Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate(Ronacare AP,0.5%) 6 防晒剂之间的兼容性 防晒剂之间的兼容性