敦煌文献记载的刺绣及相关问题探讨 preliminary study of the embroidery recorded in dunhuang documents.pdfVIP

Vol.49 第49卷 2012年04月 第04期 No.04, Apr. 2012 历史与文化 缥缈变化的 “宋 ”罗 罗 群 ( 中国丝绸博物馆，杭州310002) 摘要：回顾了罗的变化历史及其组织结构和织造技术的演化，分析了南宋黄昇墓中出土的各种花罗组织结构多样性，重点探讨了二 经绞平纹花罗、二经绞浮纬花罗、三经绞平纹花罗、三经绞斜纹花罗、三经绞隐纹花罗等在小花楼束综提花机上的装造形式、织造 工艺和操作程序，为再现古代提花织罗技术的奇巧及保护和传承这项独特的丝织技艺提供技术支持。 关键词：纱罗；纹样；织造技术；宋代 中图分类号：G263 文献标志码：A 文章编号：1001-7003(2012)04-0052-05 Leno weaving techniques in Song Dynasty LUO Qun China National Silk Museum, Hangzhou 310002, China) ( Abstract: This study introduced the evolution, weave structure and weaving technique of leno fabric and analyzed the weave diversity of patterned lenos excavated from Huang Sheng tomb of Song Dynasty. The loom style, weaving handicraft and operation sequence in the jacquard of the patterned lenos consisting of two warp ends with pattern woven by tabby, two warp ends with pattern woven with float weft, three warp ends with pattern woven by tabby, three warp ends with pattern woven by twill 1/2 and three warp ends with ground woven by leno and pattern woven by leno were emphatically researched. This study will provide the technical support for the reappearance, protection and inheritance of the ancient silk leno weaving techniques. Key Words: Leno; Pattern; Weaving techniques; Song Dynasty 丝织品种“罗”在两千多年前已出现，到了宋 许多罗织物的痕迹。最早保存完好的罗是马王堆一号 代，罗织物的绞转结构开始改变，并创新出相应的织