厦门大学海洋科学导论课件水文部分lect15-1205.pptVIP

The shallower the water, the greater the interaction between the wave and the bottom alters the wave properties, eventually causing the wave to collapse. Mustang Island regular wave trains 1) 波速和波长的变化 当波浪传至浅水和近岸时，其周期最为保守。 水深变浅时，其波速、波长都逐渐变小 Wave refraction 波峰线有逐渐与等深线平行的趋势，波向线与等深线垂直 海底凸出的海岬处，波向线辐聚，海浪较大；凹进的海岸，波向线辐散，海浪较小 Wave refraction and longshore drift 4. Wave breakers(波浪破碎） Wave steepness (stability) is a ratio of wave height divided by wave length (= H/L). When H/L is larger than or equals 1/7 (H/L ? 1/7), the wave becomes unstable. There are three types of breakers:, Spilling breakers溢出型 , Plunging breakers 崩捲型 , and Surging breakers崩塌型 . Surfers at La Jolla CA 5. Wave reflection波浪反射 Wave bounces back after encountering an object Can interfere with incoming waves and cause standing waves Minimum energy loss occurs when a wave is reflected at a right angle Less ideal reflections may produce standing waveswhich have no net movement Reflection occurs at an angle equal to the angle of approach 6. Wave diffraction波浪绕射 Wave diffraction §6 Tide The tides rise and fall in response to forces generated by the Sun and the Moon and the rotation of the Earth-Moon system about their common center of mass. The actual pattern of the tides varies from place to place around the world. Tide patterns Diurnal tides(日潮) One high tide and one low tide each day Semi diurnal tides(半日潮) Two high tides and two low tides each day Semi diurnal mixed tides(混合潮) the water levels of the two high tides and of the two low tides are unequal Three common tide patterns World distribution of tide patterns 潮汐不等现象 潮汐日不等：一天之中两个潮的潮差不等，涨潮时和落潮时也不等 高高潮（higher high water)＼低高潮(lower high water) 高低潮(Higher low tide)＼低低潮(lower low tide) 大潮和小潮 Tides can be classified based upon their monthly record. The tidal range varies slightly each day in a systematic pattern.– Spring tide(大潮): phase when tidal range is maximal.– Neap tide（小潮）: phase when tidal range is minimal.Tides Astronomic knowledge related t