海岸动力学英文CoastalHydrodynamics25.pptVIP

Chapter 2 Because of its similarity to real waves and its simplicity, the solitary wave has been wide application to nearshore studies. It would appear that the solitary wave would not be particularly useful in describing the periodic wind waves we deal with in the ocean. 29/36 Chapter 2 §2.5 Wave Theory Limits of Applicability How does one decide which of the wave theories is applicable to his particular problem? 30/36 Chapter 2 This ‘validity’ is composed of two parts: the mathematical validity, which is the ability of any given wave theory to satisfy the mathematically posed boundary value problem. the physical validity, which refers to how well the prediction of the various theories agrees with actual measurements. 31/36 Chapter 2 Ranges of applications of the several wave theories as function of the rations H/gT2 and h/gT2 32/36 Chapter 2 In general, the linear wave theory does well in deep water when wave steepness is small, while the Stokes wave theory proved to be more applicable when wave steepness is large. In the intermediate water, almost all kinds of wave theories could be used. The cnoidal wave theory and the solitary wave theory do well in shallow water. 33/36 MINI-EXAMINATION Chapter 2 34/36 As far as the water surface, the particle velocity and the particle orbit are concerned, what are differences between linear waves and Stokes II waves? Homework Chapter 2 Please ponder upon the following problems. Standing waves often occur when incoming waves are completely reflected by vertical walls. At which phase position would the wall be located? What are differences between the linear waves Stokes waves? How to decide the suitable wave theory for a specific problem? 35/36 THANK YOU “Coastal Hydrodynamics” —— chapter 2 Coastal Hydrodynamics Chapter 2 The pressure field associated with a progressive wave is determined from the unsteady Bernoulli equation