Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.2 Ocean Wave Characteristics 海岸动力学教材.pptVIP

“Bilingual Course” ZHENG Jinhai March 2009 Coastal Hydrodynamics HOHAI UNIVERSITY Chapter 3 WAVE TRANSFORMATIONS Stating ocean wave characteristics Stating transformations of waves entering shallow water 2/38 Statistical characteristics of ocean waves Chapter 3 §3.1 Ocean Wave Characteristics 2. Wave height distribution and wave period distribution 3. Ocean wave energy spectra 4. Deep-water wave propagation 5/39 Chapter 3 What are statistically representative waves? 11/39