第四章 织物选购.ppt

第四章 织物的选购与保养 (Section and Care of Fabrics) The components of a textile fabric ----fiber type , yarn structure or arrangement,fabric structure ,finish,andcolor---must allbe considered in the section,use ,and care of a textile product.The relative important of each of the factors is closely related to the appearence ,durability ,maintenance ,and comfort of the product Appearence The appearence of a fabric can be described as the visual effect on consumers ,who , in addition, make use of the sense of touch to further comprehend what they see. Thus ,both the visual and tactile senses(手感) are involved in appearance Durability Durability is defined as the ability to last or endure ,the power to last or continue in any given state without deterioration（变形） or destruction . Consumers ,in general ,do not wish to have fabrics last a lifetime . Thus ,for purposes of this discussion ,fabric durability is considered to be the ability to retain properties and characteristics for a reasonable period of time Comfort The importance of comfort ,like that of appearance ,will vary according the predetermined end use of the product and the preferences of the consumer . Such considerations as air permeability（透气性） ,thermal retention（保暖性） ,texture and tactile characteristics（手感） , moisture absorbency（吸湿性 ）, wicking properties（芯吸性） ,weight per unit area（每平方米重量） ,and rigidity（刚度） versus stretch appear（延展性） to be related to comfort 选择 1） 吸湿性 吸湿性是指物体在空气中吸收或放出气态水的能力，具体来说就是指服装材料能及时吸收人体皮肤表面排出的汗液和蒸汽，并能通过纤维传到织物的另一面，释放到空气中的能力。这种性能越好，吸湿性越好，人体皮肤越干燥，人不会有闷热感，尤其是在闷热的夏季和剧烈运动时。 服装材料吸湿性的大小取决于构成服装材料的纤维的结构、纱线的结构、面料的组织和后整理等方面。 服装材料中，天然纤维材料的吸湿性比化学纤维材料好，化学纤维材料中，人造纤维材料比合成纤维好。因在天然纤维中有的有较多的亲水基团，有的有空腔或毛细管，所以它们的吸湿、透湿性大都较好；纱线较蓬松，材料越薄越稀疏、透孔的材料，缝隙较大，有利于汗液的吸收和挥发，宜做夏季服装。由于化学纤维的吸湿性普遍较低，为提高化学纤维的吸湿性，通常是将化学纤维和天然纤维进行混纺，或是以包芯纱的形式出现 (如以涤纶为芯纱，棉为包层纱组成的涤棉包芯纱)，或用双层织物形式出现 (如涤盖棉，内层为棉，外层为涤)，近些年来有些国家又开发出了高吸湿性的纤维织物，超细纤维、