蚕丝交织物活性染料染色及抗紫外整理-纺织化学与染整工程专业论文.docxVIP

I I 蚕丝交织物活性染料染色及抗紫外整理 中文摘要 蚕丝交织物活性染料染色及抗紫外整理 中文摘要 蚕丝具有亲肤透气、服用舒适、光泽柔和等诸多优点，但是蚕丝存在易泛黄、易 折皱且价格昂贵的缺点。蚕丝交织物，如蚕丝/粘胶、蚕丝/锦纶交织物，能很好地弥 补蚕丝织物的不足。蚕丝/粘胶交织物可采用酸性和中性染料/直接染料一浴法或二浴 法染色，但湿处理牢度欠佳、二浴法工艺繁琐。蚕丝/锦纶交织物可以采用酸性染料 染色，但是湿牢度不佳。蚕丝/粘胶、蚕丝/锦纶交织物都是轻薄型织物，对紫外线阻 挡较弱。本课题围绕蚕丝/粘胶、蚕丝/锦纶交织物的染色和整理中存在的问题，采用 活性染料对蚕丝/粘胶、蚕丝/锦纶交织物进行染色研究，采用反应型和非反应型紫外 吸收剂对蚕丝/粘胶、蚕丝/锦纶交织物进行紫外防护整理研究，主要研究结果如下： 蚕丝/粘胶交织物前处理效果受温度和纯碱用量的影响较大；用活性染料对蚕丝/ 粘胶交织物染色，在中温条件和适量纯碱条件下，可获得较好的同色染色效果。用活 性染料对蚕丝/锦纶交织物染色，pH 值对染料上染量和固着量影响很大，pH 值、温 度、纯碱用量对蚕丝和锦纶的表观色深有着不同程度的影响。活性染料染色的蚕丝/ 粘胶和蚕丝/锦纶织物色牢度优良。 反应性紫外吸收剂在蚕丝/粘胶交织物上的吸附程度随纯碱用量的增加呈下降趋 势，温度对其吸附影响不大，元明粉对其吸附起促进作用，采用反应性紫外吸收剂可 赋予蚕丝/粘胶交织物较好的紫外防护性能。当非反应性的紫外吸收剂被用于蚕丝/锦 纶交织物整理时，在较低 pH 值和中温条件下其吸附程度高；非反应型紫外吸收剂能 赋予蚕丝/锦纶交织物很好的紫外防护性能。 关键词：蚕丝交织物；活性染料；染色；紫外吸收剂；紫外防护 作 者：熊 梦 指导教师：唐人成 II II Abstract Reactive Dyeing and UV Protection Finishing of Silk Blends Reactive Dyeing and UV Protection Finishing of Silk Blends Abstract Silk has many excellent properties such as good touch feeling, good wearing comfort, soft luster, etc. However, it also has the shortcomings of yellowing, creasing and high price. The blends of silk with other fibers (e.g., viscose and nylon) can greatly improve the disadvantages of pure silk fabrics. Silk/viscose blend can be dyed with acid and neutral dyes/direct dyes in one bath or two baths, but the dyeings have wet color fastness and the two-bath dyeing procedure needs long process time. Silk/nylon blend can be dyed with acid dyes, but its wet color fastness is poor as well. Both silk/viscose and silk/nylon blends are light-weight fabric, their resistance to ultraviolet ray is poor. In the light of the problems existing in the dyeing and finishing processes of silk/viscose and silk/nylon blends, reactive dyes were applied for the dyeing of silk/viscose and silk/nylon blends, and reactive and non-reactive UV absorbers were applied for the UV protection finishing of silk/viscose and silk/nylon blends. The major results of this study were in the following: Temperature and soda dosage ha