海岸动力学英文课件CoastalHydrodynamics1.ppt

As the beaches become even more intensely Chapter 1 “The beach is the battleground of the shore.”____William Beebe “The real conflict is between man and nature. ”____Soucie utilized because of increasing population, we must establish priorities in the possible uses of the coast. 2. Characteristic Features of Coast of China Chapter 1 (I) Variety of Coast Types and Innumerable Islands (II) Innumerable Rivers Emptying into the Sea and Complicated Coastal Processes (III) Vigorous Dynamic Action along the Coast (IV) Prominent Climatic Influence Chapter 1 For the continental part of China, the length of According to geomor- (I) Coast types phological features, the coast of China may be classified mainly into silty coast, sandy coast, rocky coast and coral coast. coastline is about 18000 km, and when including the coastline of 6500 islands, an overall length of 32000km may be counted. Chapter 1 Silty coast (淤泥质海岸) is formed chiefly due to the supply of huge amount of fine sediment by large rivers. The material composing such coast is very fine, generally with grain diameter 0.06 mm. The beach profile presents a very gentle slope, varying from 1/500 to 1/2000. (I) Coast types Chapter 1 Sandy coast (沙质海岸) is formed most near the mouths of rivers carrying coarse sediment; or where wave action is so strong that fine sediment is easily carried away and difficult to deposit. The grain diameter of the material generally ranges from 0.06 to 2.0mm, with beach profile usually 1/100. (I) Coast types Chapter 1 Rocky coast (基岩海岸) presents irregular configuration, with numerous bays, straits and capes. Owing to the presence of great depth of water and good sheltering condition, favorable sites for port construction could be found along such coast. (I) Coast types Chapter 1 Coral coast (珊瑚礁海岸) prevails along the coastline south of the Tropic of Cancer. Coral reefs are usually found around islands, s