海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3教学幻灯片.pptVIP

Coastal Hydrodynamics Chapter 3 The conservation of wave equation can be expressed as 1. Conservation of wave equations This equation states that any temporal variation of the wave number vector must be balanced by spatial changes of the wave angular frequency. 4/34 Chapter 3 2. Wave transformation in shoaling water Assuming that the energy flux is conserved in the process of wave propagation, the wave height at a given water depth can be determined by: 5/34 Chapter 3 3. Wave refraction 6/34 Chapter 3 Wave convergence and/or divergence 7/34 Chapter 3 4. Wave reflection The r