海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastl Hydrodynamics_2.4.pptVIP

Chapter 2 The pressure at any depth under a standing wave is Note that under the nodes, the pressure is solely hydrostatic. The dynamic pressure is in phase with the water surface elevation, and as before it is a combined result of the local surface displacement and the vertical acceleration. 32/37 Chapter 2 If the wave heights of the incident wave and the reflected wave are different, the superposition creates a partial standing wave. The surface elevation of a partial standing wave is 33/37 Chapter 2 It is realized that the successive antinodes and nodes appear at the intervals of L/4. 34/37 Chapter 2 The reflection coefficient (反射系数) based on the linear wave theory can be determined by measuring the amplitudes at the antinode and node of the composite wave train. 35/37 Homework Chapter 2 Please ponder upon the following problems. Standing waves often occur when incoming waves are completely reflected by vertical walls. At which phase position would the wall be located? 36/37 THANK YOU “Coastal Hydrodynamics” —— chapter 2 Coastal Hydrodynamics 1. Linearization of basic equations Chapter 2 §2.3 Small Amplitude Wave Theory 2. Solution of the linearized equations 3. Dynamic kinetic characteristics of small amplitude waves 4. Standing waves 2/37 Chapter 2 3. Dynamic kinetic characteristics Water particle velocity components Water particle trajectory Pressure field Energy and energy propagation 3/37 Chapter 2 The velocity components can be found by substituting the solution of velocity potential into the definition of potential function. Velocity components 4/37 Chapter 2 Velocity components are harmonic functions of x and t. The horizontal velocity component has the same phase as the elevation of the free surface. The horizontal and vertical components are 90o out of phase. Velocity components decrease exponentially with depth. 5/37 Chapter 2 The displacement of the wa