服装外部形态与内在结构的关联性研究-设计艺术学专业论文.docx

中文摘要 由于服装是根据人体形态变化的，因而服装设计必须建立在理解人体结构的 基础之上。所以，对于人体形态的研究既是设计的基础知识，同时也是设计者基 本技能的理论依托。这是因为，纸样作为从人体结构到服装成品转化的重要环节， 关系到设计最终成果的优劣。在以往的相关研究中，对于人体形态的论述空间较 为宽泛，在一定程度上影响服装结构及其造型的严谨性。实验证明，在纸样设计 过程中，单纯地关注绘制手法显然是不够的，既要考虑构成人体立体形态的造型 因素，也要考虑到与服装形态相关的结构因素。 本文首先对服装视觉形态的相关知识进行了分析与归纳，对服装视觉形态的 内涵进行了阐释，从人、自然环境、社会环境、科学技术四个方面具体分析了服 装形态的影响因素，在此基础上，对服装结构形式以及技术原理作了较全面的分 析，并完成了女上装基本原型的构成实验，并针对特殊体型的主要部位，如肩部、 胸部、背部、腰腹部等部位的具体特征，完成了女上装纸样结构实验。最后，结 合毕业创作《花的嫁纱》系列婚纱设计进行了实践检验。 关键词：服装外部形态、内在结构形式、人体特征、实验 I 外文摘要 Variation of clothing is based on human figure, while the aesthetic and practical value of clothing is based on the understanding of human body structure. Therefore, study on the human figure should be taken as both the basic knowledge for design and the basic skill of a designer. The pattern, which is the brigde between human body structure and finished garments, partly determines whether the design results succeed or not. However, previous studies didn’t expand much enough on the space of human figure, resulting in a lack of rigour in the clothing structure. Therefore, in the process of pattern design, simply drawing is obviously not enough. A 3D stereo shape of clothing on human body must be considered. Not only the modeling elements that forming 3D human figure but also the moving parts of human body should be considered. First, this paper will analyze and summarize the related knowledge of clothing vision form. It will interpret the basic attributes of clothing vision form. It will show how these four main factors——people, natural environments, social environments, and science and technology——affect the clothing vision form. It will analyze the method and significance of emotional clothing design, with examples of specific design language. Then, this paper will systematically interpret the clothing structure form and technical principle. It will show a constituting experiment of a prototype of a female jacket. On the base of the experiment, this paper will analyze the characteristics of the