第六章__纺织品整理class.pptVIP

第六章 纺织品整理 Special finishes for wool fabrics Wool fabrics are subjected to a series of finishing operations that specific t that fiber or to blends including wool. These processes include carbonizing, fulling, crabbing, and decating. Carbonizing Carbonizing is a chemical finish. Wool yarns and fabrics frequently contain vegetable matter that was not removed during carding. To eliminate this contaminate, wool fabric is immersed in a solution of sulfuric acid, then subjected to high temperatures for a brief time. The acid and heat react to convert the vegetable matter to carbon, which is easily removed by a final scouring and , if necessary, by brushing. The process must be carefully controlled to prevent damage to the wool fiber. Crabbing A mechanical finish applied to wool fabrics, crabbing permanently sets the construction. The fabric is immersed in hot and then cold water, and then it is passed between rollers. If it is properly fed into the rollers, the warp and filling yarns in a woven fabric are set at a true 90°angle to each other. For other constructions, the crabbing process is designed to stabilize the construction. Improper crabbing may produce “off-grain” fabrics, which never look or handle satisfactorily. Fulling Fulling is a mechanical finish applied to wool and to some wool blends to produce a compact, closely constructed fabric. It is used primarily on woven fabrics. When a wool fabric is removed from the loom, it bears little resemblance to the fabric the consumer will see. It is loose or open in weave and hard and stiff in texture. The fulling process helps to pull yarns together and to soften them at the same time. Moisture, heat, and friction are used. The same action occurs in felting, and if wool fabrics are handled too roughly during fulling, they may become more like a felt than the intended fabric. Tentering Tentering is a mechanical straightening of fabrics. It is a part of many finishing operations such as mercerizing, resin finishing, dryi