花瑶挑花服饰结构及其技艺变迁和传承.DOCVIP

PAGE PAGE 1 研究与技术 花瑶挑花服饰结构及其技艺变迁和传承 谢 菲 (桂林旅游高等专科学校 广西旅游科学研究所，广西 桂林 541006) 摘要：作为身体装饰系统，花瑶挑花服饰通过头饰、上衣、腰带、挑花裙、绑腿等服饰结构的制式、颜色及穿着方式，阐发与服饰穿着主体生产、生活的关联性，表达群体审美感性及其生活理性，从而形成了一套自我生产的话语知识体系。随着时间流逝，作为族群表征之物，花瑶挑花服饰在穿着制式、挑花裙材质及图案布局等技艺构成上发生了一定变化与调试。进入国家级非物质文化遗产名录以来，花瑶挑花技艺逐渐从原有的亲缘、地缘传承向中小学素质课程、民族节日的旅游空间拓展，途径更趋多元、范围更为广阔，为当下民间手工艺类非物质文化遗产项目的保护与传承提供了借鉴。 关键词：花瑶；挑花；非物质文化遗产；服饰结构；审美感性；生活理性 中图分类号：TS941.1251 文献标志码：B 文章编号：1001-7003(2014)00-0000-00 收稿日期：2014-04-18；修回日期：2014-08-02 作者简介：谢菲(1973—)，女，副研究员，博士，主要从事民族文化与文化遗产保护的研究。 Clothing Structure of Cross-Stitch Dress of Hua Yao and Transition and Inheritance of Its Skill XIE Fei (Guangxi Tourism Science Institute, Guilin Institute of Tourism, Guilin 541006, China) Abstract: As a body decoration system, cross-stitch dress of Hua Yao interprets the correlation with the production and life of the subject wearing the dress and expresses the aesthetic mind and rational life of the group through the pattern, color and wearing way of clothing structures such as headwear, jacket, belt, cross-stitch skirt and leggings, thus forming a set of discourse knowledge system of self-production. As time passes by, as the symbolic object of the ethnic group, cross-stitch dress of Hua Yao has changed in wearing pattern, material of cross-stitch skirt and pattern layout. Since the entry into national intangible cultural heritage list, cross-stitch skill of Hua Yao has gradually expanded towards primary and secondary school quality course and tourism space of national holiday from the original relative and geographical inheritance with more diversified approaches and wider scope and provides reference for the protection and inheritance of folk handicraft intangible projects. Key words: Hua Yao; cross-stitch; intangible cultural heritage; clothing structure; aesthetic mind; rational life 瑶族是一个支系众多、分布较广的民族。一般说来，瑶族称谓可分为自称与他称两种。瑶族的他称是其他民族根据自己的认识和理解，对瑶族政治生活、宗教信仰、居住地域和服饰等表现出的不同特点而给出的称呼[1]。花瑶这一他称正是由于该族女性擅长挑花且服饰色彩斑斓、艳丽无比而得名。 据可查的历史文献资料记载，最早描绘瑶