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FANCY YARNSLIHUAN ZHAO6 Manufacturing techniques1. ring twisting2. contract3. texturizing4. drafting apron5. bobbin6. roller setting7. lappet8. turnNew Words:9. ring rail10. evenness 11. unevenness12. flyer frame13. spinning head14. flamme15. twist level16. slip resistant17. twisting-in18. space dyeing19. strand20. wrapped yarn21. spinner22. condenser system23. condenser spinning24. recovered fibre25. friction spinning26. feed shoe27. opening roller6.1 Overview of production processesIn the last quarter of the twentieth century, this pattern (that is, the pattern of a new technique creating a new market) was made manifest three times in the field of fancy yarns. These new markets – or new market sectors– have been opened up following the development of the hollow spindle spinning system, the chenille manufacturing system, and the miniturisation of the circular knitting process to create the chainette yarn. It is therefore reasonable to expect it to continue to do so: new mechanisms will be developed, resulting in new costs, new effects, and new markets. There are, at present, four main methods being used for the production of fancy yarns that involve structural effects: hollow spindle, ring twisting, the ‘combined system’ and the chenille system.In 1976, the Lezzeni Company in Italy developed a new manufacturing route that combined the hollow spindle system and the ring spindle system, and since that time many other manufacturers have followed suit. The chenille manufacturing system is also relatively recent, at least from the point of view of an industry as old as the textile industry, since it too is a development of the past two or three decades. The ‘combined system’, as its name suggests, is a technique using a machine that combines two spinning points, one after the other, in a single passage of the machine. One of the most common combinations is that which combines a hollow spindle with immediate passage of a ring spindle in the reverse twist direction. This
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