涤纶混纺面料抽褶裙褶皱造型评价与分析.pdfVIP

天津伤识孙技2024年第2期

服装工程

涤纶混纺面料抽褶裙褶皱造型评价与分析

曾靖涵，池泽俊，孙银银，吴建兵

（常熟理工学院纺织服装与设计学院，江苏常熟215500）

摘要：针对抽褶裙的抽褶造型效果问题，文章以半身裙为研究对象，选取7种涤纶混纺织物进行保形

性能、力学性能测试和主观评价试验，筛选出3种较适宜抽褶的面料，分别为涤麻混纺（70:30）、涤棉混纺

(50:50)、竹黏纤维与涤纶混纺(50:50)面料，并分别制作3组相同尺寸的样裙,每组包含5cm和10cm抽褶

长度，对3组抽褶裙进行KendallsW检验主观评价试验。研究得出：竹黏纤维与涤纶混纺(50:50)面料（抽褶

长度10cm)美观度评价最好；织物密度、线密度、厚度与织物折皱回复性、力学性能呈正相关,若织物折皱回

复性、抗拉伸性越好，则织物呈刚性，折皱效果立体生硬，可改变混纺成分提升抽褶裙造型美观度。

关键词：抽褶造型；涤纶面料；混纺织物；外观造型；主观评价

中图分类号：TS193.7文献标志码：B

EvaluationandAnalysisofPleatsinPleatedSkirtwith

PolyesterBlendedFabric

ZengJinghan,ChiZejun,SunYinyin,WuJianbing

(SchoolofTextileGarmentandDesign,ChangshuInstituteofTechnology,Changshu,Jiangsu215500,China)

Abstract:Aimingattheproblemofpleatingmodelingeffectofpleatingskirt,theexperimenttookhalfskirtas

theresearchobject,selected7kindsofpolyesterblendedfabricforconformalpropertytest,mechanicalproperty

testandsubjectiveevaluationexperiment,andscreenedout3kindsoffabricsthatweremoresuitableforpleating,

namelypolyester/linen(70:30),polyester/cotton(50:50)andbambo0pulpfiber/polyester(50:50)blendedfabric.Three

groupsofsampleskirtsofthesamesizeweremadewiththreekindsoffabrics,eachgroupcontaining5cmand

10cmpleatlengths.KendallsWtestwasconductedforthesubjectiveevaluationexperimentanddataanalysisof

thethreegroupsofpleatskirts.Theresultsshowthatthebamboopulpfiber/polyester(50:50)blendedfibric(10cm

length)hasthebestaestheticevaluation.Thedensity,lineardensityandthicknessoffabricarepositivelycorrelated

withthecreaserecoveryandmechanicalpropertiesoffabric.Ifthecreas