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2011年09月07日 06:23 AM
中国本土男装崛起
Enter the dragons
英国《金融时报》 克里斯蒂亚诺?安格
Revolution often comes from the most unexpected places – even in fashion. As luxury watchers ponder whether or not China will ever produce its own high-end fashion label, thus directing the spending balance away from western brands, some local designers are already making the speculation a reality – though not in women’s wear, as might be expected. 变革的潮流往往发生于某些令人出乎意料之地—甚至是时装业。正当奢侈品观察人士寻思中国能否生产出自身的高端时尚品牌,从而引领并扭转青睐西方产品的消费倾向时,一些中国本地设计师已经把猜想梦成现实——只是并非如预期中的在女装领域。 Instead, as Amy Chua was penning Battle Hymn of the Tiger Mother, a growing number of young Asian men defied family expectations and abandoned white-collar jobs to create a new upmarket segment of the local men’s wear industry. Their ages range from 19 to 30, and they have started bringing hand-made ties, custom-made shoes and bespoke shirts to the Asian market. 然而,正当蔡美儿(Amy Chua)执笔写《虎妈的战歌》(Battle Hymn of the Tiger Mother)时,越来越多的亚洲帅男们公然违抗家人的期望,辞去自己的白领工作,打造中国自己的高端男装,他们的年龄从19岁至30岁不等,手工打造的 领带、定制鞋与定制衬衣已开始投放亚洲市场。 Mark Cho, 28-year-old co-founder of The Armoury, a Hong Kong haberdasher popular with the online men’s wear community, left his job at a London bank to start his business in Hong Kong last year. Cornell-educated Justin Chang, 24, the scion of Ascot Chang, a Hong Kong-based company known for its bespoke shirts, also abandoned the world of finance after an internship at a stock brokerage. Meanwhile, 25-year-old Gerald Shen didn’t even bother with banking: armed with a degree in finance and economics, he started working full-time on his Singapore-based tie-making business straight after graduation. 28岁的香港服装经销商曹文伟(Mark Cho)去年辞去了自己在伦敦某银行的工作,回到香港创业,他与人合伙创办了The Armoury公司,如今已在网络男装行业大名鼎鼎。今年24岁、毕业于康奈儿大学(Cornell)的贾斯廷?张(Justin Chang)结束券商公司的实习后,也辞去了工作。他是香港知名衬衫定制生产商诗阁(Ascot Chang)的后人。今年25岁、手持财经学位的杰拉德?沈(Gerald Shen)同样如此,他毕业后甚至没去银行业求职,直接回到了新加坡,全身心创办了自己的领带公司。 All say that their passion for clothing meant that working in the industry was inevitable. “
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