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Couture Sewing Technique
Claire B.Shaeffer
Printed in the United States of America,2001
The book was originally published in hardcover in 1993 by The Taunton Press,Inc.
Chapter4.Edge Finishes
Hems,Facings and Bindings
Unless finished in some way, the edges of a garment ravel and look incomplete. These edges梩he neckline; the vertical front edges of jackets, coats and many blouses; jackets and coats梒an be finished in conspicuously or they can become distinctive, decorative elements of the design.Three finis hes are used extensively in couture:hems, facings and bindings.
The choice of edge finish depends on many things梩he shape of the edge being finished; its position on the garment; the type, design and fabric of the garment; current fashion trends; and the preferences of the individual wearer and the designer. For example, if the bottom edge of a dress is straight, it might be completed with a hem, a facing or a binding. But if this edges is asymmetrical, curved, scalloped or otherwise unusually shaped, it will need to be finished with a facing. Even when the edge is visually the same on the neckline and hem, the two different edges are likely to require slightly different finishes to accommodate the curve at the neckline and the weight of the fabric at the hem. And although it’s obvious that a tailored garment would require very different finishing from an evening gown, even similar designs vorked in dissimilar fabrics would dictate finishes suitable for each fabric.
Although hems, facings and bindings are all edge finishes, each has a slightly different function. Hems are generally used on the lower edges of a garment or garment section (for example, a sleeve) and many help the garment hang attractively by adding weight to the edge. Facings, on the other hand, are applied to the upper and vertical edges of a garments. Bindings can be used on upper, lower or vertical edges, but they’re used most often to replace facings rather than hems.
Facings can be cut as sepa
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