Modelling+of+sediment+movement+in+the+surf+and+swash+zones.pdfVIP

Acta Oceanol. Sin., 2015, Vol. 34, No. 2, P. 137鈥?42 DOI: 10.1007/s13131-015-0610-2 E-mail: hyxbe@263.net Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones 1, 2 2, 3 1 1, 2 TOKPOHOZIN N. B. * , KOUNOUHEWA B. , AVOSSEVOU G. Y. H. , HOUEKPOHEHAM A. , AWANOU C. N.3 1 Institut de Math茅matiques et de Sciences Physiques (IMSP/UAC), Porto-Novo R茅p01BP 613, du B茅nin 2 Centre B茅ninois de la Recherche Scientifique et Technique (CBRST), Cotonou R茅p 03BP 1665, du B茅nin 3 Laboratoire de Physique du Rayonnement (LPR/FAST-UAC), Cotonou R茅p 01BP 526, du B茅nin Received 6 August 2014; accepted 21 October 2014 漏The Chinese Society of Oceanography and Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2015 Abstract Under the action of marine currents, non-cohesive sediments evolve by bed-load, by saltation or suspension depending on their granulometry. Several authors have considered that the movement of sediment is bidimensional and modelized the effects of swell by a constant velocitynear the seabed. Here we have studied the velocity profile of fluctuating currents near the seabed and studied the movement of sediment in 3D. The results show that in the areas of study (surf and swash) the movement of sediment occurs in a volume, and the evolution of sediment varies from an areato another. The obtained theoretical profiles of the position and velocity vectors confirm the observations of several authors. Key words: non-cohesive sediments, sediment dynamics, swell, trajectory of sediment, velocity drive Citation: Tokpohozin N. B., Kounouhewa B., Avossevou G. Y. H ., Houekpoheham A ., Awanou C. N.. 2015. Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 34(2): 137鈥?42, doi: 10.1007/s13131-015-0610-2