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Dart manipulation techniques
Dart manipulation techniques Tutor: Nicola Chadwick preparation Pin the fabric down the center front – every 3cm Position the bust line at bust level, and at 90 degrees to the center front. Temporarily mould the shoulder and waist dart and pin loosely, do not cut the neckline, leave plenty of excess fabric Place pins to hold the fabric at the shoulder point, the side waist and the bust line Repositioning the suppression Please note that the bust suppression and the waist suppression can be pivoted around the front bodice block to different positions without loosing fit. Moving the bust suppression to the neck Gently coax the fabric from the shoulder bust dart, with your fingers and hands and pivot the shoulder dart to its new location in the neck line, fold the fabric gently and pin to the stand Bust Suppression to Neck The bust dart at Neckline position Combining two darts into one The bust suppression can be manipulated below the bust line, the bust suppression can be pivoted to any area below the bust level and can also be combined into the waist suppression The tutor will now demonstrate the following dart possibilities The waist dart, the French dart, center front dart. Illustrations of waist dart, french dart and center front dart Illustration of dart positions The French Dart Clear the shoulder of darts, by placing a pin at the neck point and trim away the excess fabric at the neck, release the pins at the bust suppression. Smooth the excess fabric from the dart down and form into a dart at the desired location, combine the waist dart also Trim away the excess fabric at the side seam and the waist The Waist Dart Method Release the French dart and place a pin at the side seam The combined dart will hang from the bust point, smooth down the fold and pin at the waist level Trim waist and armhole The Center Front Dart Pin at the center front, place a pin at the neck point and smooth the fabric as before over the chest and pivot down so that the suppression
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