平衡攀登技巧四.docVIP

平衡攀登技巧(四) Twist-Lock：Twist-lock involve turning your upper body to face the hold being locked off. It provides reach and strength advantages. Steep climbing lock-off strength varies dramatically with body position. The body is strongest at lock-offs when the torso turns toward the hold being locked. Twisting your lock-offs also adds significantly to your reach by positioning the shoulder of your reaching arm closer to its destination.側身：將上半身將向Lock off的把手點那邊，這樣有抓得遠及力量的優勢。在陡峭的地方攀登用這一招可以使力量大增，當驅幹轉到把手點側時，身體最穩固；另外側身可以使你抓得較遠，因為除了手臂還加上你的肩膀長度。註：這是一種最重要的攀岩技巧之一，如果不會，在岩場時要特別請教有經驗的人。 High –Stepping：Step high all the way up to your next foothold. Shift your weight onto one foot as the other foot lifts off of its hold. Push up and reach to the next handhold. Flexibility is important for high stepping. Extreme high-steps put a tremendous strain on the knee when weight is rocked on, so go slowly. 盡量的提到下一個腳點，把你的體重放到一隻腳上，然後另一隻腳就離開原來的點，往上推讓手抓到下一個點。這個動作柔軟度很重要，另外身體搖動時對膝蓋的壓力很大，所以要慢慢移動。 ↓左上：側身的時候配合Diagonal，左手右腳用力，左腳平衡。右上：在很角度很大的懸岩上側身，懸空的腳幫助身體轉向而作出側身的動作。左下：就算踩在相對的側向腳點，只要一隻腳的膝蓋朝下，仍可做出側身的動作（Dropping one knee allows you to twist a lock-off even when stemming between opposed footholds）。 Figure-4：A climbing technique where the climber throws one leg over a wrist or arm that is holding onto a hold. Using the leg to push the body higher, the climber is then able to reach holds that would not be reachable otherwise. This is a pretty handy, though strenuous, technique for use on overhanging rock and an option when you cannot dyno. 四字式：這種姿勢有一隻腿會翻到有抓住點雙手的手腕或手臂上，用這隻腿把身體往上推，讓手可以抓到下個把手點（其他姿勢都抓不到的），雖然很費力，但在懸岩處或你不會動態攀登時很有用。 Dyno：Dynamic movement towards a distant hold, aka dead point. 動態：在距離很遠的點使用，沒抓好可能就墜落了。 　 Rest (Face) A hand jam in a pocket A heel hook or toe hook A knee, shoulder, or even a headbar Alternately switching fingers on a hold Hanging straight-armed from a jug A drop-knee with the hips close to the wall Rest (Crack) Stem in a corner or leg in the crack Hang straight-armed f