鲍参翅肚-cuhk.pdf

S h e u n g w a n 文、圖 駱吉婷，香港中文大學人類學系研究助理 Text Photography |Luo Jiting, Research Assistant, Department of Anthropology, The Chinese University of Hong Kong ， 不論是「鮑參翅肚」或是「鮑參肚翅」 鮑魚在四大海味珍品中都是列 ， ， 。 ， 。在中菜 居其首 實至名歸 無可置疑 俗語有云 「一口鮑魚一口金」 的世界裡，鮑魚歷來都被認為是珍味中的極品，其價格更一直居高不下。尤其是九十 年代中國經濟騰飛之後，鮑魚的需求量有增無減，消費鮑魚的群體越來越廣。目前， 鮑魚的貿易主要集中在東南亞，產地遍佈世界各地。在這全球化貿易的競技場中，香 港憑藉其獨特的地理優勢和金融地位，成為鮑魚交易裡最為重要的樞紐，承擔了絕大 數量的轉口貿易。上環海味街是香港海味貨品集散的中心地，恰處於這場經濟變革的 風口浪尖，敏銳地經歷著資訊交換和價格浮動，如同一個萬花筒。透過它，可窺探到 大千世界經濟變遷的眾生相。 “Abalones, sea cucumbers, shark fins, fish maws” - no matter how we sequence the “4 luxurious sea products” in Chinese cuisine, abalones always come first, as saying goes, “a bite of abalone is a bite of gold”. Crowned the finest delicacy in Chinese food culture for centuries, abalones are sold at hard prices. The economic boom of China since 1990s had increased the demand for abalones and brought a much wider consumer spectrum. Southeast Asia is currently a vibrant abalone trading network, selling abalones caught from all over the world. In this sophisticated trading network, Hong Kong has the geographical and financial advantage to become the most important abalone trading hub of the world, taking charge of most of the re-exports. At “Dried Seafood (Hoi-mei) Street” in Sheung Wan, you get the most updated news and price flow of all kinds of dried seafood. The street scene here reveals world’s economic changes. 084 野外動向 HONG KONG DISCOVERY Vol.69 SS hh ee uu nn gg 鮑魚的故事