西方女装纸样结构设计赏析-sumecqfcn.docVIP

西方女装纸样结构设计赏析 掌握女装纸样的结构设计是学好服装纸样制作的关键。大家可能在平时总会赞叹女装的万千变幻。那别致的领型，多变的约克，性感的腰身，漂亮的袖子，飘逸的长裙，大气的长外套，淑女的裙子。在心理我们总在想这些变幻从何而来，而她的原理又是什么？我们能够了解她吗？是的，我们能够！只要我们对女装结构设计有爱好，有兴趣。那么就让我们来揭开她的一点点面纱，探探究竟。 下面的图示介绍中大多数结构名称采用的是原文章的英文。这样的话更能符合原意。最主要的还是本人英文不好，怕理解错误，误人之弟。有不正之处，还望大家指正。 首先看一下不同体形的前后身原型纸样 不同的体形 产生不同的前后身原型纸样 关于前后身原型的获取方式 有立体的方式 也可以通过测量人体的尺寸以平面的方式获取 不管何种女子原型都是以本国的女子体形决定的。象日本的有日本女子文化原型，中国近几年也发展了几种，如东华原型，米氏原型等等，在这里就不一一累赘了。但最早的还是西方的。 女子纸样的变化都是通过原型纸样上的省位转移来实现的。 Chapter 1—Pattern Designing Underarm Dart The French Underarm Dart The Dart-Tuck Dividing the Control Substituting Single Dart with Multiple Darts Multiple Darts at the Waistline Shirring or Smocking Replacing Single Dart RULE SIX Control Under Yoke Unity in Arrangement Relationship in Design Drapery in Design Balanced Drapery Control in Yoke Seam Control in Plastron Seam Control with Secondary Seam Horizontal Center Front Control Vertical Center Front Control Adaptation of Center Front Control Distribution of Center Front Control Cowl from Simple Center Front Control Average Cowl Drapery Deep Cowl Neckline with Vestee Novelty Cowl Neckline Cowl Yoke Simulated Cowl Yoke Simulated Yoke Simulated Plastron Surplice Closing Informal Balance Double Breasted Closing Concealed Control Rever with Vertical Center Front Control Simple Rever Double-Breasted Novelty Rever Décolleté Garments, Brassiéres and Bathing Suits 一些变化练习 Chapter 2—Slopers Shifting Control into Yoke Seam Moving Fundamental Seams for Sake of Design Variations of Designs for Backs Eliminating Waistline Control 变化练习 Chapter3—Hip Length Patterns Semi-Fitted Jacket Multiple Dart Tucks French Lining Jacket Variations of French Lining Peplum Jackets Chapter 4—Sleeve Patterns 袖子的原型 Shifting Control to Little Finger Position Variations of Little Finger Control BishopSleeveor Peasant Type Sleeve Folded Sloper Variations and Methods Simulated Cuffs Three Quarter Length Sleeves with Cuffs Adaptations of the Coat Sleeve Sloper Bell Sleeves Various Typ