第六章纺织品整理ulvabiap.pptVIP

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 增重效果 经锡盐增重处理后，丝织物不但重量增加，而且较为挺括，悬垂性提高，手感也丰满一些，但对光氧化比较敏感，且强伸度和耐磨性受到一定影响． * 3、树脂整理 防皱整理。 防皱剂：2D树脂，聚氨酯，有机硅树脂、多羧酸等。 干交联工艺：与棉相似，120℃低温快速烘。 湿态交联工艺：干、湿都有防皱性。 气相交联工艺：干弹性高等。 真丝其他整理：防泛黄、防霉、盐缩、砂洗、 丝鸣、丝胶固着、特种功能整理。 * Durable Press The introduction of true durable (permanent ) press occurred in the early 1960s. Several processes and finishes were introduced, but dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU) was the most successful. Fabrics could be treated with DMDHEU, and then garments could be produced and final fabric finishing completed to stabilize pleats, hems, and seams. Since that time, most fabrics containing cellulosic fiber have been treated with some type of durable-press finish. * To improve the strength and abrasion resistance of most durable-press fabrics, cellulosic fibers are blended with a stronger thermoplastic fiber such as polyester or nylon. Since the early 1970s, polyester has been the most common fiber used in such blends. * 第五节 合成纤维织物热定形 合成纤维与天然纤维不同，纤维结构受水影响小，但受热影响大，织物通过热处理可获得定形效果。也有些吸湿较大的合成纤维辅以湿度，进行热定形。 干热定形---涤纶 湿热定形---腈纶、锦纶 目的---提高尺寸的热稳定性，消除已有折痕，防止使用时产生新折痕。平整、抗起球性改善。 * Heat-setting (Calendering) Several Polished-surface fabrics are produced by calendering, or smoothing the fabric under pressure. The basic process is a mechanical treatment, but heated rolls can be used to produce special effects on thermoplastic materials, and resins can be added to produce special glazed finished. Temperatures used in special calendering range from room temperature to 260°C . Heat calendering can soften thermoplastic fibers to impart a permanent design; durable designs are also possible when resin finishes are used. If pressure alone is used on non-thermoplastic fibers, the design can be lost during the first laundering. * 一、热定形机理 合成纤维在Tg（玻璃化温度）以下，分子链段活动冻结，只有小基团能热运动。在Tg以上，无定形区分子链段热运动灵活，对织物施加张力，分子链段按外力方向蠕动重排，保持张力状态冷却，则新状态便被固定下来。