近岸波浪变形数值模拟及破波带沿岸流计算-港口、海岸及近海工程专业论文.docxVIP

中文摘要波浪变形预报及波浪破碎引起的近岸区流场问题一直是海岸动力学的重要 中文摘要 波浪变形预报及波浪破碎引起的近岸区流场问题一直是海岸动力学的重要 课题。沿岸流是伴随波浪破碎在近岸水域中出现的周期平均水流运动现象，对近 岸水域泥沙运动、污染物的输移、海岸线的演变以及近岸水工建筑物的荷载计算 均有着十分重要的意义。因此对沿岸流计算方法的研究不但具有很高的理论意 义，而且具有直接工程意义。 本文首先回顾了Boussinesq方程的发展过程及现状，对各种基于Boussinesq 方程的破碎模型进行了分类，总结了运用数值模型进行沿岸流计算的研究成果。 然后，论文探讨了一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型在沿岸流 计算中的应用问题。针对控制方程中的完全非线性项对沿岸流成长过程的影响进 行了深入讨论。数学模型计算结果表明，完全非线性项有使平均流局部化的作用； 通过数模实验还发现，垂向高阶涡度项可以有效抑制破波区外回流；运用 Visscr[37J的实验室沿岸流实测资料从沿岸流速度、波高和平均水位几方面对所提 模型进行了验证，并给出了紊动参数的计算结果；将Longuet-Higgins的沿岸流 解析公式计算结果和物理模型结果进行了对比。 关键词：波浪破碎沿岸流Boussinesq方程完全非线性项高阶涡度项 ABSTRACTWave ABSTRACT Wave deformation and wave-induced current has been an important topic in coastal dynamics．Longshore current is a phenomenon of phase-average flow movement in the nearshore region occurring alter wave breaking，which has great importance Oil sediment movement，contamination transportation，shoreline evolution and load calculation for the coastal structures．Thus study on the calculation method for longshore current plays an important role not only in practical application but also in theoretical research。 In this paper，review on the development of Boussinesq equation,classifying the wave-breaking models based on the Bonssinesq equation and research on the longshore currents with numerical model are carried out．Then a numerical wave breaking model based on the fully-nonlinear Boussinesq equations is investigated in terms of its application in calculation of longshore current．The growing process of the longshore current affected by the funy-nonlinear terms is also investigated through numerical tests，which indicates that the fully-nonlinear terms may induce localization of the mean current．It is also found from the numerical tests that the addition of hi：gh order vorticity terms in the governing equations can significantly reduce the backward flow circulation outside the surf zone．Modeled results of longshore currents，wave heights and mean water levels ale verified by Visser’S laboratory da饥There