八都麻绣的织绣技艺和艺术特征.docxVIP

研究与技术DOI: 10． 39 研究与技术 DOI: 10． 3969 / j． issn． 1001-7003． 2014． 10． 008 八都麻绣的织绣技艺和艺术特征 金 琳，楼 婷 ( 中国丝绸博物馆，杭州 310002) 摘要: 八都麻绣源于春秋战国，制作工序古老，从种麻、剥麻、绩麻、织布直至挑花，全由传统手工工艺 制作，20 世纪 80 年代后期逐渐消逝，目前已被列入浙江省非物质文化遗产保护名录。通过对浙江淳 安王阜乡八都麻绣传承人和江西分宜县苎麻产区的调研探访，并结合相关史料记载，具体记录、考证 八都麻绣的苎麻布绣底的织制工艺，包括苎麻纤维的制取、苎丝加工和单综单蹑腰机织造。同时，从 功能、针法、用色、图案等剖析八都麻绣的艺术特征: 采用一针走到底的十字挑绣，挑制寓意深刻的抽 象几何图案，装饰于日常生活用品上，具有蓝白和对称的艺术效果。 关键词: 八都; 苎麻; 麻绣; 织绣技艺; 单综单蹑腰机; 十字针 中图分类号: TS193． 5 文献标志码: A 文章编号: 1001-7003( 2014) 10-0037-08 Weaving and Embroidery Techniques and Artistic Features of Badu Ｒamie Embroidery JIN Lin，LOU Ting ( China National Silk Museum，Hangzhou 310002，China) Abstract: Badu Ｒamie Embroidery first appeared in the Spring and Autumn period ( 770 － 221 BC ) ． The whole process is completed manually，ranging from planting ramie，peeling ramie，entwisting ramie and weaving to cross- stitch work． The traditional handicraft gradually died away in 1980s． Currently，it has been included in intangible cultural heritage protection list in Zhejiang Province． Through investigating and surveying the inheritor of Badu ramie embroidery in Wangfu Township of Zhejiang and ramie producing area in Fenyi County in Jiangxi，this paper verifies the weaving technique of Badu ramie embroidery according to historical data and records，including preparation of ramie fiber，ramie yarns making and weaving with the single-heddle and single-treadle back-strap loom． Besides，this paper analyzes artistic characteristics of Badu ramie embroidery from the function，stick method，color and pattern: cross-shaped couching and abstract geometric pattern with profound meaning are decorated on daily necessities，with artistic effect of blue，white and symmetry． Key words: Badu; ramie yarn; ramie embroidery; weaving and embroidery techniques; single-heddle and single- treadle back-strap loom; cross stitch 八都麻绣为流传于浙皖交界的淳安西北部八都源 ( 现为严家、王阜两乡) 一种独特的民间刺绣工艺。它 以麻布为绣底，用棉线绣以各种“十字花”组成图案， 再将它缝制成各种美观又实用的日常生活用品，麻绣 作品多为白底蓝花或青底白花，古朴清新。因八都源 为古代山越人居住之地，故亦名“山越麻绣”。 八都