视觉平衡视角下的清末女装装饰艺术.pdf

视觉平衡视角下的清末女装装饰艺术 谭 莹，闫夏青，张竞琼 (江南大学 纺织服装学院，江苏 无锡 214122) 摘要：通过对江南大学传习馆大量清末女装实物和历史资料进行分析，总结了清末女装装饰艺术的四个特征：装饰位置的“包 围”化、装饰图案的“团状”式样、装饰色彩的“和谐”醒目感和装饰形式的“对称重复”性，这些特征反映出装饰艺术“以 和为美”的精神气韵，且具有视觉平衡属性。以视觉平衡理论作为指导，从视觉重力感和方向感为切入点，可以找到不同装 饰单元关系及组合形态间的平衡表达方式，揭开清末女装装饰艺术崭新的一面，带给读者不同的视觉心理感受，为服饰装饰 艺术发展提供一定的参考和启示。 关键词：视觉平衡；清末女装；装饰艺术；重力感；方向感 中图分类号：TS941.12 文献标志码：B 文章编号：1001-7003(2000)00-0000-00 收稿日期：2014-06-04 ；修回日期：2014-09-23 基金项目：教育部人文社会科学规划项目(11YJA760090) 作者简介：谭莹(1970—)，女，讲师，主要从事服装文化与服饰设计研究。通信作者：张竞琼，教授，硕导，j.q.chang@126.com 。 Decoration Art of Female Clothing in Late Qing Dynasty from Visual Balance Perspective TAN Ying, YAN Xiaqing, ZHANG Jingqiong (College of Textiles and Clothing, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China) Abstract: Though analyzing lots of female clothing in late Qing Dynasty collected in ChuanXi Museum of Jiangnan University and historical data, four features of the decoration art of female clothing in late Qing Dynasty are summarized. These features include the following: encircled decoration position, “ball-like” decorative pattern, the harmonious and eye-catching decoration colors and “symmetric repetition” of decorative form. These features reflect the spirit of “harmony as beauty” in decoration art and have visual balance attribute. Guided by visual balance theory, we can start from the sense of gravity and sense of direction and find out the relationship among various decorative unites abd balanced expression mode among combined forms, uncover a new side of the decoration art of female clothing in late Qing Dynasty, bring the readers different visual psychological feelings and provide certain reference and enlightenment for development of clothing decoration art. Key words: visual balance; female clothing in late Qi