清至民国时期汉族无顶童帽研究.docxVIP

历史与文化清至民国时期汉族无顶童帽研究卢杰，崔荣荣(江南大学纺织服装学院，江苏无锡214122)摘要：无顶童帽是中国传统儿童服饰品之一，其历史悠久，至清代及民国时期仍非常流行，但由于当代蓄发制度的废除无顶童帽的佩戴也逐渐变少。现以江南大学汉族民间服饰传习馆的实物为研究基础，并且结合历史史料和绘画作品对清至民国时期无顶童帽的造型、装饰特征，以及其佩戴的季节、场合、人进行研究，探索无顶童帽的功能及装饰等意义。研究表明，清至民国时期无顶童帽在佩戴时有男女儿童的区分；款式变化可以适应季节变化的需要，佩戴时间较长，除外出佩戴外更具居家功能。此外无顶帽较其他童帽具有独特的装饰价值和实用价值，其在保暖的同时又具透气性，满足了儿童生长需要，并且结合近代儿童发式特点，可满足装饰、固发、礼仪等多方面的需要。关键词：传统服饰；童帽；无顶帽；装饰；保暖中图分类号：TS941.721；K892.23文献标志码：B文章编号：1001-7003(2016)00-0000-00 引用页码：收稿日期：2015-06-25；修回日期：2016-01-04基金项目：国家社科基金艺术学项目(15AG004)；中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2015JDZD05)作者简介：卢杰(1989—)，女，硕士研究生，研究方向为服装设计理论与服装社会文化史。通信作者：崔荣荣，教授，cuirong3369@。Study of the Han topless bonnet from Qing dynasty to the Republican PeriodLU Jie, CUI Rongrong(Textile and Garment College, JiangnanUniversity, Wuxi214122,China)Abstract:Topless bonnet is one of Chinese traditional children’s garment accessories with a long history, which still remained popular in the Qing dynasty and the Republic of China, but it was dwindled due to the abolishment of contemporary hair-wearing system. Based on the material object of Han Folk in Garments Biography Museum of Jiangnan University, bonnet shapes, decorative features and the wearing seasons, occasions and the people were studied in combination of the historical data and paintings from the Qing dynasty to the Republic of China to explore the function and decorative significance of topless bonnet. Studies indicate that the topless bonnet from Qing dynasty to the Republic of China were distinguished between boys and girls; style changes could meet the demands of the seasonal variation and the wearing time was long; besides, it more owned household function except outdoor wearing. Also, topless bonnet showed more uniquely decorative and practical value compared with other bonnets. Its warmth as well as breathability met children’s growth needs. In combination of hear style feature of children in modern times, it can meet the demands of decoration, hair fastening and etiquette etc.Key words: traditional dres