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Chapter 5 Supplementary Reading 领子的制作和应用 衣领架脖子和脸，因为他们接近眼睛的水平，形成服装最引人注目的部分。虽然有很多不同的风格，所有的衣领主要分为三类：：。平原，立领的是使最简单的经常裙子和上衣。平的衣领，如彼得潘和水手的衣领，。领、围巾卷领子都适合的衬衫，以及西装上衣和外套衣领Mandarin Collar The pieces of this type of stand collar are often curved in shape at the front so that the collar slopes in smoothly the upper neck. 中式领这种类型的立领往往是弯曲的形状在前面以便顺利上颈领的斜坡。 Shirt Collar A shirt collar has an upright stand and a collar piece that folds down over the stand. The stand may be cut out as a separate band or cut in one piece with the collar . 衬衫领 翻领 在翻领，领子的部分。其余的折叠下来。支架部分可能是，或。 披肩领 在领一个变化，披肩领A variation on the basic rolled collar,the shawl collar has a stand section that gradually tapers down to a thin point at the center front. 胸饰领 在其基本形式中，该箍是一个斜裁的广场。广场的点垂在褶边。 In its basic form,this collar is a bias-cut square.The points of the square hang down in ruffles. 立领 这种类型的领子立于领口缝。它可以由一个窄频带，或从一个更广泛的一个折叠本身。 This type of collar stands up from the neckline seam.It can be made from a narrow band ,or from a wider one that folds back on itself. 平领 一种平领坐几乎平坦的领口。彼得潘的变化包括水手的衣领。 A flat collar sits almost flat at the neckline .Variations include Peter Pan an sailors collars. 领口的部分 衣领是从织物的单段和连接使收支平衡为中心的前端或中心回来，或从两个部分织物使收支平衡为中心的前端和中心回来。根据成品的形状，一个环可减少一块，这是褶皱一半，或者是两件，其缝在一起。 的应用。它支持的面料顶层，也有助于掩盖缝津贴缩进在服装的正面。此规则的例外是一个西装领。 Interfacing is usually applied to the wrong side of the top collar piece of a rolled or flat collar,or to the outer part of a stand collar.It supports the top layer of fabric and also helps to mask the indentation of the seam allowances on the right side of the garment.The exception to this rule is on a tailored collar. 一个很轻的平领 Use sew-in interfacing on lightweight and fine silk fabrics,or on very fine fabrics use a matching organdie instead of interfacing .Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of the top collar piece,then tack in place. 用轻细缝接口的真丝织物，或在非常精细的面料使用相匹配的蝉翼纱而不是接口。接口的引脚上领片的反面，然后钉在的地方。 对于一个单件立领 Apply a lightweight sew-in interfacing to the whole collar piece.Take the interfacing ligh