纺织基本常识_有用啊详解.ppt

BASIC PRINCIPLES OF TEXTILE紡织基本常識;GENERIC NAMES OF TEXTILE FIBERS-USA原料 纺织纤維專用名稱NATURAL FIBERS 天然纤維;MAN-MADE FIBERS人造纤維;GENERIC NAMES OF TEXTILE FIBER –(UK EUROPE) 英國及歐洲纤維專用名稱;FROM FIBRE TO FABRIC由纤維到织物;YARN IDENTIFICATION 一般常見的 紗支表示方式 ;長絲紗- 是由一根或多根連續平行較細的長絲組合成紗,一般以d Denier 旦尼尔,是以9,000米長,紗有多少克重量. 1d = 9,000 米的紗重1克重. D 值越小, 纱线越细, 即75d要比150d的纱支幼细. 超細纤維- 紗支內每一根長絲小於1d 祢為超細纤維. 75D/96F, 75d粗細由96根長絲組合成的紗. 捻紗 -目前所讲的纱支数大都是指“英制支数”，用英文字“S”表示.它的定义是：在公定回潮率，重一磅的纱线，它的长度有几个 840 码，就称为几支纱线.纱线越粗，S值就越小，纱线越细，则“S”值越大.即40S/1要比20S/1的纱支幼细. ;FABRIC CONTENTS,织物成份;基本织布组织;平织布;一般平织物表達方式;針织布;針织物組织表達方式;DYED AND FINISHED 染色及整理;DYE CLASS 染料分類;REACTIVE DYES – FULL RANGE OF COLORS. NOT FAST TO WASHING.FAIR TO GOOD FASTNESS TO LIGHT.- CELLULOSIC, PROTEIN FIBER, ( WOOL, SILK) 活性染料 – 利用化学反應与纤維接合,各種顏色,及牢度良好. ACID DYES –COMPLETE COLORS RANGE, BRIGHT AND EASY APPLICATION. MAINLY APPLY TO PROTEIN FIBER AND NYLON 酸性染料 – 容易染色,有各種顏色,主要用於蛋白質及尼龍絲. DISPERSE DYES – FULL RANGE OF COLORS. SMALL PARTICLE FOR EASE TO PENETRATE. SPECIAL DESIGNED FOR DYEING POLYESTER 分散染料 – 有各種顏色,染料分子小容易穿透上色.主要用於涤綸 PIGMENT – COMPLETE RANGE OF COLORS, NOT A TRUE DYESTUFF. INSOLUBLE AND HAS NO AFFINITY TO FIBER. MECHANICALLY ADHERED ON THE FIBERSURFACE BY THE USE OF BINDER.PERFORMANCE AND FASTNESS PROPERTIES DEPEND ON NATURE OF BINDER. POOR RUBBING AND SOLVENT FASTNESS 顏料 – 非正式的染料,無法溶解与紗結合,是利用接合劑与布表面粘合色牢度及功能是依接合劑而定.磨擦牢度不好.;METHOD OF DYEING, PIECE DYED 平织疋染色方式 JIGGER DYEING 卷染 BATCH DYEING 浸染 – 針织 CONTINUOUS DYEING 連續壓染 FINISHING MERCEIZATION 絲光 PEACHSKIN 桃皮絨效果 SANDING 磨毛 BRUSHING 抓毛 COATING 涂??? WASHING 洗水 BLEACHING 漂白 GARMENT DYE 成衣染色 PFP -PREPARING FOR PRINTING 前处理印花用半漂布 PFD - PREPARING FOR DYEING 前处理染色用半漂布 ; CONTINUOUS DYEING; INDIGO DYEING;FINISHING;NON-WOVEN 無纺布, 不织布;CARE LABELLING 洗水标;ZIPPER SIZE 拉链尺寸;ZIPPER SIZE;BUTTON 鈕釦;SIZE OF BUTTON 鈕釦尺寸