社会史视角下的刺绣.docVIP

中国传统刺绣的社会文化史解析 方 健 (苏州大学 艺术学院，江苏 苏州 215123) 摘要：从社会史和文化史的视角，探讨了中国传统刺绣历经数千年不衰的实质，认为刺绣材质的精神文化内涵主要源于对生命过程的关注及对历史悠久的玉石文化的推崇。通过文献资料搜集法，探讨了刺绣对于女性的意义，发现一直以来主要由女性参与的刺绣对于不同阶层的女性而言，具有不同的实际意义(如谋生、休闲娱乐、修心养性等)和象征意义(如勤勉、身份地位、情色等)。同时，刺绣又与贵族精英阶层尤其是以男性为代表的文人士大夫阶层保持着密切的关系，其发展与他们的赞助推广密不可分。因此，对中国传统刺绣进行多维度的考察解析，或许对现代刺绣的发展具有一定的现实意义。关键词：传统刺绣；社会史；文化史 中图分类号：TS941.12；J523.6 文献标志码：B 文章编号：1001-7003(20)00-0000-00 收稿日期：2014-07-06；修回日期：2014- 作者简介：方健(1973—)，男，讲师，主要从事艺术史的教学与研究。 Analysis on Social and Cultural History of Chinese Traditional Embroidery FANG Jian (School of Arts, Soochow University, Suzhou 215123, China) Abstract: This paper discusses the essence of Chinese traditional embroidery unfading over thousands of years from the perspective of social and cultural history, considers that spiritual and cultural connotations of embroidery materials mainly come from the attention paid to life process and the praise of jade culture with a long history, discusses the significance of embroidery for females with the method of collecting document literature and finds that embroidery mainly involving females has different practical significance (such as living, recreation and leisure, spiritual cultivation etc.) and symbolic meaning (such as diligence, status and erotic etc.) for females in different classes. Meanwhile, embroidery keeps a close relationship with aristocratic elites, especially scholar-bureaucrat class represented by males and its development is inseparable from their promotion. Therefore, multi-dimensional investigation and analysis on Chinese traditional embroidery might have certain practical significance for the development of modern embroidery. Key words: traditional embroidery; social history; cultural history; multi-dimensional perspective; investigation and analysis 近些年来，在非物质文化遗产热的带动下，传统手工艺的研究又成为了热门。作为传统手工艺中的重要门类——刺绣也不例外。检索相关研究信息，文章、专著等研究数量的确不少，也取得了不少成果，但是其中也存在着诸多不足。 首先，过调地域观念和地方特色。为强调自身刺绣的悠久历史而急于追根溯源但是因为缺乏客观、冷静的态度使得这种溯源显得颇为牵强。正如徐坚在一篇研究湘绣的文章中所指出的那样[1]244：由于以湖南民间刺绣为