流体力学第六章-2.pptVIP

总11 * 6. Approximations for Deep and shallow Water Deep Wave Approximation H / λ 1 (deep water ) H / λ 1 (shallow water ) In the ocean, a dominant period of wind-generated waves is about 10 s, λ is 150 m. A typical continental shelf is bout 100m, and in the open sea, about 4 km. –wind waves act as deep water in the ocean, even over shelf With 3% accuracy for H0.28λ Shallow water Approximation : H /λ 1 Speed is independent of wavelength and increases with depth This is not true of gravity waves generated by tidal forces and earthquakes; these may have wavelengths of hundreds of kilometers. Gives better than 3% accuracy if H0.07 λ (Valid for kH 1.75) Using the following approximation The particle excursion then become thin ellipses The velocity field is found as w u Pressure change from the undisturbed state; independent of depth at any point The pressure field is completely hydrostatic ; shallow water waves are also called hydrostatic waves. Water Refraction in shallow water The bending of wave paths in an inhomogeneous medium is called wave refraction The waves coming toward the beach always seem to have their crests parallel to the coastline (a sloping beach) Wavelength and speed become smaller, but frequency does not change. Standing Waves: Nonpropagating waves, by superposing two Waves of the same a and λbut moving in opposite directions. It follows that η = 0 for kx = ± π / 2, ± 3π / 2, …. Points of zero surface displacement are called nodes. The free surface therefore does not propagate, but simply oscillates up and down with ω, keeping the nodal points fixed. Such waves are called standing waves. A standing oscillation in a lake is called a seiche, in which only certain wavelengths and frequencies are allowed by the system. The possible wavelengths are found by setting horizontal velocity u = 0 at the two walls sin ( kL ) = 0 → no flow through the walls Natural f