海岸动力学-天津大学coast4-2012.ppt

Simplification of momentum equations For horizontal equation : Friction term + tide-generating force Depth-averaged velocity Continuity Equation Depth-averaged velocity Governing Equations The simplest tidal wave Assumptions No friction force, Coriolis force No tide-generating force Along x direction Horizontal bottom Small amplitude, no nonlinear effects Wave motion equation The simplest tidal wave Solutions An Example: Tidal wave amplification across the shelf edge. Taking h1 = 3500 metres and h2 = 200 metres shows that the tidal wave slows down significantly as it crosses into the shallower water Shallow water wave speed : The amplitude of the wave will also change, and we can estimate how much by assuming the wave energy flux is conserved across the shelf break. Thus, the tidal wave slows down and gets bigger. total energy flux of shallow water wave ？ Tidal co-range lines (in feet!) off eastern USA. （等振幅线） “Co-range” = contour line of constant tidal range. After: Redfield, 1958. Journal of Marine Research, 17, 432-448. More complicated cases Resonance of a harbour Tidal wave propagation in a variable cross-section Effect of the bottom friction Effect of the earth’s rotation (Coriolis force) 1. Co-oscillation (resonance) in a gulf. Plan Side Tidal oscillation at mouth, amplitude AL A x = 0 x = ? / 4 x = L Problem: If the sea level at the mouth of the gulf is forced with a tidal frequency, and amplitude AL, what amplitude of tidal oscillation will we get at the head of the gulf? Depth-integrated equation of motion and continuity: h At the closed end there cannot be flow normal to the coast, so at x = 0, u = 0 for all time. Assume the solution will be a standing wave: Time-varying at tidal frequency Current amplitude varies spatially along gulf, Put this as u in the equation of motion, and integrate to get: Substitute for ? and u in the continuity equation to show that c = (gh)1/2 Now say that at the entrance, x = L, the elevation is forced by t