《花式灯芯绒组织结构设计》-毕业论文.doc

PAGE PAGE II 毕 业 论 文 花式灯芯绒组织结构设计 花式灯芯绒组织结构设计 摘 要 灯芯绒为割纬起绒的绒条棉织物， 因表面有耸立绒毛排列成纵条状形似灯芯草而得名，具有绒毛丰满、手感柔软、光泽柔和等特点。文章通过对灯芯绒面料历史文化发展的探索，分析了目前国内外灯芯绒服装再度流行的原因及国内灯芯绒生产与市场的现状，同时详细解析了灯芯绒面料的组织构成、起绒原理以及在设计灯芯绒织物时应该注意的问题、设计技巧和方法。在涤锦超细丝为原料所获得的特殊外观效果和特殊性能基础上，对其组织进行创新和设计。通过灯芯绒绒纬浮长的长短变化和排列次序不同来改变绒条粗细的变化；采用组织的纬起绒组织结构来展示灯芯绒的“点”、“线”、“面”等花样结构的变化等方法来丰富的灯芯绒织物的设计。将原料的染色特性、组织的变化、割绒工艺多变性（间割、偏割）及其它后整理工艺等结合利用，得到风格各异的灯芯绒面料，以满足人们对灯心绒面料的不同需求。 关键词 灯芯绒；组织；涤锦超细复合丝；设计方法；割绒 THE WEAVE STRUCTRUE DESIGN OF CORDUROY FABRIC ABSTRACE Corduroy, the surface arranged in longitudinal strips hair is similar to lampwick grass, and has a kind of cotton fabric by cutting the weft yarns. It has excellent properties of round section with velvet, hair fullness, soft feeling, flexible, soft gloss and so on. Based on the investigation on the developing history culture of corduroy clothing, the reasons for the corduroy colth being the rage once more at domestic and international were explored, the present conditions of production and marketing on the corduroy clothin were analyzed in the paper. At the same time, the corduroy fabrics structure, the napping principle were analysed in detail, as well as the problems, more attention were paid to the design skills and methods in the design of corduroy fabric. Superfine polyester-polyamide compound filament, as a new raw material , can be used in the production process of cordury. In this way, A special apparances and properties were being to corduroy, and a different thick and thin stripes were got by changing the length and arrangement of the nap. A texture variation was used to design corduroy, such as weft napping texture to show the varition of “dot”, “line”, “entire area” , and the corduroy designs were enriched. Together with the special property of Superfine polyester-polyamide compound filament material, texture, different cutting method(side cutting, interval cutting) and other finish process, and all different kinds of corduroy were worked out to