基于INNOVA花式捻线机的结子大肚复合花式纱线的开发-纺织工程专业论文.docxVIP

制定工艺优化方案，分别对结子花型和大肚花型进行纺纱工艺优化， 从而来实现对结子大肚复合花式纱线的工艺优化处理。当结子纱线长 度为 40mm，超喂比为 1.3 或 1.5，中空捻度为 600 捻/m 的时候，结 子花型的外观形态和手感最好；当中空捻度为 500 或 600 捻/m，超喂 比为 1.03，牵伸倍数为 5.00 或 6.00 的时候，大肚花型的纱线结构和 外观形态最好。 最后，按照最佳纺纱工艺参数配置进行了纺纱实践，并将结子大 肚复合花式纱线织成机织小样和针织小样，观察纱线样品和面料样品 的风格效果。本文设计开发的结子大肚复合花式纱线成品颜色明亮、 结构稳定、风格粗犷、手感蓬松柔软、立体感强。通过小样试织，完 整地展现了结子大肚复合花式纱线的美感。 本文设计开发的结子大肚复合花式纱线主要是用于大众化的秋 冬季时装面料，利用结子线的突出结子、大肚纱的粗细不匀、色彩的 灵活搭配等这些特点来表达出花式纱线面料的风格独特、立体感强、 色彩丰富的特点，使服装高贵、柔软、丰富、立体、天然美观。 关键词：复合花式纱线；结子线；大肚纱；INNOVA 花式捻线机；纱 线开发 DESIGN OF KNOT AND BIG-BELLY COMPOSITE FANCY YARN BASED ON INNOVA FANCY SPINNING MACHINE ABSTRACT Using fancy yarn can effectively solve the problems of easily producing strips, spots and other defects. Also it makes a better fabric appearance with a stereoscopic appearance and unique style, so as to satisfy modern people’s demands of pursuing beauty and personalized life. Composite fancy yarn is a product composed of various materials, colors and structures. Moreover, as an improvement of the tradition kind, composite fancy yarn, which belongs to a upper class field, is now the trend leader of fancy yarn. However, composite fancy yarn has relatively high requirements for equipment with high performance and powerful function. INNOVA fancy twisting machine is a kind of fancy yarn production equipment imported from Italy with leading-edge technology. This paper mainly focuses on the design of knot and big-belly composite fancy yarn on the INNOVA machine. Firstly, mechanism and features of INNOVA machine will be discussed. And analysis on the spinning principle and production process will be given. With multi-functional high performance, INNOVA can effectively motivate the innovation of yarn in a technical way. Using the MF module and the MS1 module of the spinning a design of knot and big-belly composite fancy yarn will be given. Secondly, based on the function of INNOVA machine, the design of knot and big-belly composite fancy yarn together with its