同色匀染剂AF在真丝-锦纶交织物同色染色中的应用.docx

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同色匀染剂AF在真丝/锦纶交织物同色染色中的应用

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王立盛锦璐吴孟余志成

摘要：为提高真丝/锦纶交织物酸性染料染色同色性，将同色匀染剂AF施加至染浴，研究助剂用量、温度、pH值对同色性的影响，并从纤维表面电荷变化的角度分析其改善同色性的机理。结果表明，在同色匀染剂AF质量分数为2%（o.w.f），染液pH值为4，染色温度85℃条件下，真丝/锦纶交织物同色性最好;经阳离子固色剂HF-5固色处理耐洗色牢度可达4级以上。同色作用机理为：同色匀染剂AF在染液中与真丝、锦纶两种纤维发生吸附，锦纶吸附后其表面Zeta电位下降至负值，与染料间较大的排斥力阻碍了染料的吸附;真丝纤维吸附AF后对Zeta电位影响较小，对染料的吸附影响较低。

Key：染色;同色匀染剂;同色平衡值;Zeta电位;真丝/锦纶交织物

：TS193.5

文献标志码：A

：1009-265X（2019）04-0071-05

ApplicationofHomochromicLevelingAgentAFinHomochromyDyeingofSilk/Nylon-6Fabric

WANGLia，b，SHENGJinlua，WUMenga，YUZhichenga，b

（a.CollegeofMaterialsandTextiles;b.EngineeringResearchCenterforEco-DyeingFinishingofTextiles，MinistryofEducation，ZhejiangSci-TechUniversity，Hangzhou310018，China）

Abstract：Inordertoimprovethedyeinghomochromatismofaciddyesinsilk/nylon-6blendedfabric，thehomochromiclevelingagentAFwasaddedtothedyebathtostudytheinfluenceofauxiliarydosage，temperatureandbathpHondyeinghomochromatismofsilk/nylon-6fabric.Andthemechanismofimprovinghomochromatismwasanalyzedfromtheperspectiveofsurfacechargechangesonthefiber.Itwasfoundthatsilk/nylon-6blendedfabriccouldreachthebesthomochromatismunderthefollowingconditions：massfractionofhomochromaticlevelingagentAF2%（o.w.f），bathpH4.0anddyeingtemperature85℃.ThewashfastnesscouldexceedLevel4aftertreatmentbycationicfixingagentHF-5.Themechanismofhomochromydyeingisasbelow：homochromiclevellingagentAFisadsorbedonsilkandnylonfibersinthedyeingsolution.Zetapotentialonthesurfaceofthenylondecreasedtoanegativevalueafteradsorption，andlargerepulsiveforcebetweenthedyesinhibittheadsorptionofthedyes.TheeffectofsilkfiberontheZetapotentialafterAFadsorptionissmall，andtheeffectondyeadsorptionislow.

Keywords：dyeing;homochromiclevellingagent;homochromicequilibriumvalue;zetapotential;silk/nylon-6fabric

真絲面料与人体贴合性好，是夏季衣物服饰的首选面料