服装纸样设计的差异匹配原理与应用.pdfVIP

纺织学报 第27 ~ j自 4 期 Vo1.27 No.4 2αJ6年 4 月 Iournal of TextiJe Res四皿h Apr . 2006 文司E编号:0253-9n 1(2仪涌)04-α)48‘05 服装纸样设计的差异匹配原理与应用 Itl_ 建国 ， 叶棋， 杨玉乎 (浙江理工大学、浙江杭州 31∞18) 铺 要 自民主妻是由许多裁片经慈次报关磁含而成，从成品形态看.似乎组合两侧的缝边与形状是等长、等形的.其 实不然‘一方面离子m装最终选观效果主要求是立体的，且萎求与穿警对象体我也面相吻合:另一方面由于D!l装材 料彬在的厚度等原因，为俊贩毒草选lH达到守~级巢，须对衣片缝合苦，位的德边透行差异匹配设计。缝边的经界黛 郎为吃势盘或归~最. p军N.差异1ì与材料且在tr.. 、成衣形态及缝制工艺有关e 纸#宇差异匹配设计分为~叠越差异匹 配和转衍型羡异匹配。 关槌诩 穰辈辈结构;纸样设计:归拨原理事 ， i.U字匹配 中自四分樊号;1:;941. 61 文献栋i.!t 码:A Principle and applicatioD of difference matching in apparel pattern d崎岖n DAI Ji:m-guo. YE Hong , YANG Yu-ping ( Zh伊Ag Sci - T耐， UlIWe1哟 ， Har!pIw毡 .2问叩飞g 31∞18， Chi:n.a) Abs怕就t A 伊nnenl is made up of many piece:s of fabric sewn up one after ano由母r in an orderly way . From the confi伊ation of fìnishel garmenl , il 阳ams 由at the two sides of a searn are of the same lengthωd 地m shap毡， in fact , not always in that sitU8tion _ On one hand , stereo忧。pie tefling and fitness to the wearer 8J(; essenlial requirements to a gannent. 00 the oIher hand , (ahric thíckncss is an irnport:mt factor which should be taken iJllo cOllsid eration 飞命en making 11 阱m阳1. In order to sculpt 11 斜nnent as :mticipatel, diffeteliCe 11剧lιh del$igns on 钝an恼， such as flat fel1ed or ovcrlapped， 部它口创刷刷) . The hound edge or the blockio革， and lhe difference fo[ pattem matchi ng are related ，，;th 由e thickness of mlÙerial. lh p. ∞nfi♂lllltion of ready-wellr and S例如19 craft.slTUlßihip _ 白e d ifferefloo IlIIltching desi伊 in apparel pKltl:mωn be dhided into layer-overlapping