研究与技术 真丝素绉缎砂洗对其触感性能的影响 邓远文1，杨莹莹2 .doc

研究与技术 真丝素绉缎砂洗对其触感性能的影响 邓远文1，杨莹莹2，张鲁燕2，宋星2，田伟2，祝成炎2 (1.杭州万事利丝绸科技有限公司，杭州 310018；2.浙江理工大学 “纺织纤维材料与加工技术”国家地方联合工程实验室，杭州 310018) 摘要：采用FTT织物触感测试仪，对砂洗前后真丝素绉缎的触感特性进行测定，分析砂洗工艺对真丝织物的触感各项指标的影响。研究结果表明：砂洗工艺对真丝织物的弯曲、压缩、粗糙度、表面摩擦和热传导性均有显著的影响；经砂洗工艺后，织物的弯曲刚度、弯曲功增大，压缩和回复刚度增大，抗皱性提高；由于砂洗后织物表面存在绒毛，织物的表面摩擦系数增大；表面粗糙度振幅及波长减小，粗糙度不匀率减小，平整度提高；最大热流量增大，瞬间冷感增加，热导率减小，织物保暖性提高综合评价各项触感特性指标可知，砂洗可改善真丝织物的抗皱性、保形性、保暖性，使织物凉爽感、平滑度增加，总体手感变好。 关键词：真丝织物；砂洗工艺；触感特性；织物手感；织物风格 中图分类号：TS1 文献标志码：A 文章编号：1001-7003(2017)00-0000-00 引用页码： 收稿日期：2016-10-17；修回日期：2017-00-00 基金项目：国家国际科技合作专项项目(2011DFB51570)优秀研究生学位论文培育基金项目(11110932271612) 作者简介：邓远文(1977—)，男，硕士研究生，纺织工程及真丝产品开发。通信作者：祝成炎，教授，cyzhu@zstu.edu.cn。 Effect of tactile properties of silk crepe satin plain DENG Yuanwen1, YANG Yingying2, ZHANG Luyan2, SONG Xing2, TIAN Wei2, ZHU Chengyan2 (1.Hangzhou Wensli Silk Science Technology Co., Ltd., Hangzhou 310018, China; 2.National Engineering Lab for Textile Fiber Materials and Processing Technology(Zhejiang), Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China) Abstract: The tactile properties of crepe satin plain silk fabrics were tested with FTT fabric touch tester before and after sand washing, and the effect of sand washing on tactility indicators of silk fabrics was analyzed. The results show that sand washing has a significant influence on bending, compression, roughness, surface friction and thermal conductivity of silk fabrics; the bending stiffness, bending power, compression stiffness, recovery stiffness, and wrinkle resistance of silk fabrics are enhanced after sand washing; the surface friction coefficient of silk fabrics is increased after sand washing due to the presence of fluff on the surface of fabrics; the amplitude and wavelength of surface roughness decrease, the nonuniformity ratio of roughness decreases accordingly, and the flatness rises; the maximum heat flux increases, the instantaneous cold sensation rises, the thermal conductivity decreases, and the heat retention property gets improved. Co