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PULLEY AVULSION Bonefix(滑轮崩裂Bonefix)
PULLEY AVULSION
Closed traumatic ruptures of finger flexor tendon pulleys began to be recognized
specifically over the past several decades. This injury, although rare in the general
population, is seen more commonly in rock climbers. It can be iatrogenic as in trigger
finger release caused by excessive loss of the proximal pulleys. As the flexor tendon
moves away from the center of rotation of the metacarpophalangeal joint, the flexion
moment arm is increased. Thus the flexors gain an increased mechanical advantage over
the extensors resulting in limited digital extension.
Rock climbing
In climbing movements, the fingers produce tension on a hold to support a proportion of
the body mass while the elbow and shoulder joints flex to pull the body upward. The
isometric contraction of the finger flexors is interrupted when reaching towards the next
hold. Finger flexor strength has been shown to be a determinant of performance in rock
climbing.
Bollen identified one style in particular, known as “crimping”
which is of particular relevance to injury patterns among
climbers. It is thought that over 90% of climbers use this grip
style regularly. Crimping involves placing the fingertips on the
hold with the distal interphalangeal joint (DIP) held extended
while the proximal interphalangeal joint (PIP) and the
metacarpophalangeal joint are held flexed.
Prevalence
67 world-class climbers at the first ever rock climbing: 26% of the climbers, mainly
affecting the ring finger. It was noted that the climbers considered firm taping with non-
stretch zinc oxide tape around the affected part of the finger allowed continued training in
the presence of injury and made the injury “feel better”.
Evidence of A2 pulley injury was present in 50% of the climbers. 26% of these showed
evidence of bowstringing.
Relevant Anatomy
Flexor Tendon Pulleys
A1 pulley: - Arises from volar plate of MP
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