StudyontheRelati省略EaseDistribution王朝晖.doc

Journal of Donghua University (Eng . Ed . ) Vol. 21, No . 6 (2004)  PAGE 35  PAGE 36 Journal of Donghua University (Eng . Ed . ) Vol. 21, No . 6 (2004) Study on the Relation between Garment Style and Ease Distribution * WANG Zhao-hui(王朝晖), Edward Newton , Roger Ng Inst i tut e o f Tex ti les and C loth ing , Hong K on g Pol ytechni c Uni versi t y , Hong K on g ZHANG Wei-yuan(张渭源) Inst i tut e o f Fashi on Desi gn , Dong hua Uni versi ty , S hangh ai 200051 The shape of body and the ease of garment are the important elements in constructing garment style. However , the distribution of ease in garment is uneven and the curves showing different cross-sections of garment style with ease are unavailable in the literature. This information is crucial when the three-dimensional garment style is transformed into two-dimensional garment patterns. Thus , several different X-line style garments are produced by 3D draping technology, and the cubic spline is used to fit the cross sectional curves of BL, WL of body and garment. By comparing cross sections of body and garment, the ease at different location can be derived. Besides , garments in 10 different dimensions and quantities of style ease are included in the current study. By numerical operation on discrete ease data at different location, the fitted functions of ease distribution are obtained. Keywords :draping , f lat pattern design , eases allow ance , ease distribution , curve f itting Introduction Garm ent patter n design is a 3 D to 2 D surf ace mapping process. Tr aditionally, the garme nt patter n design can be classified as “ Dra fting Method” and “ Dr aping Method” . “ Dr af ting” is a direc t dr awing of the gar ment patter n using known body m easurem ents fr om the mannequin. Since this m ethod does not r equir e manipula tion in the 3 D space , it is called “ flat pa ttern technique” . All f la